CHAP. VII SECOND EXPEDITION 139 



certain drawbacks to be put up with on by-paths, such as their 

 narrowness and windings, and the overhanging, sometimes 

 meeting, branches. The country is similar to that commonly 

 known as the Taro desert ; an arid, level, scrub-covered tract 

 with a barren brick-dust soil and very little water. This part 

 of the route is impassable in very dry seasons, owing to the 

 little water there ever is drying up. 



It is especially troublesome watering donkeys where water 

 has to be dug for and scooped out by cupfuls from a hole into 

 which it trickles slowly ; for, before they are accustomed to 

 travelling, they are most exasperatingly stupid about drinking, 

 even when thirsty. Some will not drink out of a bucket, at 

 first ; while others, that have lived where water is only in wells, 

 cannot be induced to drink except out of a utensil of some 

 sort. Indeed, I have found, somewhat to my surprise, that 

 the obtuseness proverbially attributed to the humble ass is not 

 a libel. 



It is curious to watch the change a good drink makes in 

 thirsty donkeys. They come down with hanging ears and 

 hollow sides, looking dejected and thin, not a kick or bray in 

 the most vicious of them — and what more vicious than a bad- 

 tempered donkey stallion ? But as they drink their sides swell 

 out visibly, and ribs become less prominent. After about a 

 bucketful, up goes the head, the ears are pricked, the tail begins 

 to rise, and your lately limp and inoffensive " punda " begins 

 to look about quite cheekily again, as who should say, " Now 

 come on, you beggars ; if I don't make it hot for some of you, 

 never believe me again." 



The distances here are very long, between water and water, 

 as much as forty miles sometimes, necessitating what is called 

 " tclekeza " (literally " to make to pour in," signifying that 

 water has to be carried in gourds), which means cooking and 

 eating before starting, sleeping anywhere, and reaching the 

 next pool — often horribly foul — some time next day. This 

 sort of travelling in such a country — tramping hour after hour 



