28o ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 



ridges (though of no height), coming right down into the water, 

 to get over, reminding us of the south end of the lake. This 

 kind of margin is much more picturesque than the low swampy 

 parts, the water being clear and deepening rapidly. Both 

 south and north of the lava ridges are sandy flats. We got 

 through the difficult ground in one good day's march. There 

 was a fairly distinct path running along the sides of these 

 rocky hills parallel with the shore ; indeed it is generally the 

 case wherever the ground is covered thickly with stones, if 

 there is game in the countr}-, that paths are formed by any 

 animals passing through, owing to their naturally following the 

 line of least resistance, and so a beaten track is made and kept 

 open by constant use. Where the ground is unobstructed and 

 presents no obstacle to progress in any direction, paths are not 

 so likely to be formed. 



We found another dry river-bed with trees to camp in. On 

 this day I saw a small school of hippos, the first I had seen 

 together on the lake, though I had occasionally seen scattered 

 individuals. In the night I heard a leopard grunting, and the 

 geese were so noisy as to disturb one's sleep. From here 

 there began to be a good deal more bush, though still scattered, 

 .mainly "suaki " near the lake and farther back low-spreading 

 thorn bushes. The " suaki " is a bushy, evergreen shrub or 

 low tree with small, round, light green leaves. It is the sticks 

 of this bush that are used by Swahilis as tooth-brushes. I 

 presume the name Suakin (which merely means " at the suaki " 

 in Swahili) is derived from this tree. 



There was great abundance of game at this part. I had 

 not seen it so plentiful for many a long day. There were 

 zebra of both kinds, oryx, topi antelope. Grant's gazelle in 

 plenty, and a good many Waller's gazelle ; I also saw a troop of 

 waterbuck — the first I had met with on the lake — but my glasses 

 being behind, I could not be sure of what species. There were 

 numbers of rose-coloured bee-eaters here, and I saw one large 

 green one which seemed unfamiliar to me. It was here too that 



