XIII A SOJOURN AT RESHIAT AND KERB 307 



enticing groves of forest trees proved to be across the river ; 

 but I got a satisfactory spot at last under a large tree alongside 

 a patch of bush, conveniently near the river and not too close 

 to any kraal. Every one has his own ideas as to what consti- 

 tutes a good site for a camp. Swahilis always take up their 

 quarters close alongside of, or even in, the village. They like 

 the natives constantly crowding about and in their tents ; and 

 do not regard the other conditions, such as want of cleanliness, 

 distance from water, etc., as discomforts. I prefer a little 

 privacy with clean ground, and look upon proximity to water 

 and, if possible, shade as desirable concomitants. 



I have advisedly styled the little district of Kere a 

 " kingdom," for it was the first tribe I had come in contact 

 with in all the country from Mombasa to here which recognised 

 a chief. In the afternoon I sent up Abdulla and Mnyamiri 

 (the latter of whom was already known to him) to present my 

 salaams to Labugo (such was his name) and report my arrival 

 officially. He sent word in reply that he would visit me in 

 the morning. No presents passed so far. 



A young fellow, to all appearance one of the inhabitants of 

 the place (except that he was not quite so black), and like them, 

 in common with the males of all the tribes of this part of 

 Africa, stark naked, came out and made himself known to me 

 as a member of Count Teleki's caravan, having been left in 

 Reshiat sick, as a boy, some eight years previously, and lived 

 with the natives as one of themselves ever since. He seemed 

 pleased to see me, and said he would like to accompany my 

 caravan on our return to the coast. To this I had, of course, 

 no objection, and thought Hamisi (his Swahili. name) might 

 prove useful as interpreter while we remained here, though he 

 certainly seemed rather out of practice with his mother tongue. 

 In reply to my inquiries why he had never returned to the 

 coast with trading caravans, one or two of which I knew to 

 have visited the country during the intervening years, he said 

 that he would not trust Swahilis, and preferred remaining here, 



