CHAPTER XVI 



EN ROUTE FOR EL BOGOI 



Easy stages — Astir betimes — A regretful shot — Diversity of zebra — A blessing in 

 disguise — A salutary lesson — Implementing a promise — A spider and its prey — 

 A gladdening feast — Lacking a handy camera — A curious coincidence — El 

 Molo mode of fishing — -Stalking zebra — Departure from Lake Rudolph — Mount 

 Nyiro — A dispensation of Providence — A scene of carnage — El Bogoi camp — 

 Hearty greetings — A test of affection — Disappointed hopes. 



The 29th of April saw us once more fairly on the march 

 southward. For the first week or so it was necessary to travel 

 by very short stages, till the men should get accustomed to 

 their new loads. Tusks are carried on the shoulder, and not 

 on the head as other articles are. The latter part can be 

 protected by a long cloth, wrapped round and round so as to 

 stand up from the top of the head and form a thick pad, 

 hollow in the middle, for the load to rest on ; but over the 

 shoulders only a loose cloth, like a mantle, is worn as a pro- 

 tection to the skin. Hence it is only gradually that the 

 porters' shoulders become hardened to bearing such great 

 weights ; and in the meantime one must go easy with them. 

 When thoroughly accustomed to them, my men would often 

 march for four hours on end before ever putting their loads 

 down to rest. It is a rather pretty sight to see a string of 

 men, each with a big white tusk on his shoulder glistening in 

 the early morning sun, marching along in single file, all carrying 

 on the same side ; and then, when they want to change over, 

 all with one accord — the word having been passed along — 



