382 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 



dread the unwonted apparition. Where the inhabitants do not 

 hunt, the game may be said to become partially domesticated 

 to a slight degree. Deer in parks are somewhat more so ; a 

 tame one becomes even offensive through excessive familiarity. 

 On the other hand, cattle, left to themselves, soon get wild ; 

 showing the same natural fear of the lord of creation. Where 

 persecuted, animals are, I suppose, still wilder than where un- 

 associated with mankind — though I confess I often wonder 

 how little difference it seems to make to their approachability. 



It was not without a certain regret that I finally turned 

 my back upon the lake. Viewed as a whole, Bassu resembles 

 the Red Sea in many respects, though of course on a smaller 

 scale. Its long narrow shape, barren shores, and hot dry 

 climate, all remind one of that arm of the ocean ; while the 

 high ground on the eastern shore to a certain extent bears out 

 the comparison, and the bare rocks of Aden are not unlike the 

 style of country at the southern end (though those here are 

 much more broken up). But, though I had become attached 

 even to this not altogether entrancing lake, when, two or three 

 days later, we reached a higher level, with a colder climate, 

 near the base of Mount Nyiro, I felt reconciled to the separa- 

 tion. As we rose and entered the zone influenced by mountain 

 showers, the vegetation became quickly more verdant. It was 

 indeed pleasant once more to camp among fresh green leaves, 

 grass, and flowers, by a cool, clear, trickling spring, and to hear 

 the cheerful notes of familiar birds ; the fresh, chilly, early air 

 was an invigorating treat not felt for months past, while the 

 .sweet, cold water seemed the most delicious beverage possible. 



Early on the 26th we got out into the high open plateau 

 near the southern end of Mount Nyiro. About 6.30 I noticed 

 a rhino with a big calf away to our left, under the spur or 

 buttress of the mountain which forms its south-eastern corner, 

 which we were just about to round. Had she remained where 

 she was I should not have gone out of my way to interfere 

 with her so far from our next camp, notwithstanding that we 



