428 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 



rivers as have a longer course flow for the most part through 

 barren and unfruitful lands. 



We travellers and pioneers are too fond of giving glowing 

 descriptions of new lands — very lands of promise as they are 

 often represented to be, with every possible advantage and 

 beauty. Probably the country has been seen after rains, when 

 looking its best. One is apt, too, to be captivated the more 

 readily with any verdant belt, by contrast to the parched 

 monotony which is the rule ; for even the most unpromising 

 and arid scrub becomes beautiful and attractive after heavy 

 rains. Anyway, I have noticed that the newest district is 

 praised invariably as the one most desirable spot on earth ; but 

 no sooner is it annexed or occupied, and become familiar, than 

 its ideal perfection vanishes, its drawbacks and disadvantages 

 are then what are heard most of Perhaps this part of the 

 continent has more than its share of waterless waste. Some 

 lovely bits of country there are, it is true. But of how limited 

 extent ! Moreover, as a rule, where well-watered, fertile, and 

 healthy lands exist, they are densely populated already by 

 natives, so that there is no room for colonists. What Africa 

 lacks are ranges of snow mountains to feed perennial rivers, 

 such as would afford unfailing supplies of water for irrigation. 

 With moisture, even the wilderness may blossom as the rose. 



It was with much regret, and the hope of seeing them 

 again some day, that I parted with these pleasant Ndorobo 

 people. Lesiat and other friends gave me abundance of honey 

 for the journey, and invoked God's blessing upon us with 

 pathetic earnestness. I have not a doubt that he is hoarding 

 honey for me now. 



On our way down we found the country drier than I had 

 ever seen it ; no running water where we crossed the Seya, 

 and none between there and the Gwaso Nyiro. Our donkeys 

 — many of them half-wild Turkana asses — were restless and 

 easily scared, and most troublesome during this part of the 

 journey. Xo doubt the terror of the lion attacks had upset 



