430 ELEPHANT-HUNTING IN EAST AFRICA chap. 



these two as I have always found it; for these animals especially 

 it seems almost infallible. One sufficed for each. Luckily we 

 met a party of Wakamba just after, to whom the meat was a 

 windfall. They were evidently hungry, as they had just been 

 rescuing from the vultures some zebra bones left by lions ; so 

 the rhinos were not wasted. 



In passing through the Tana bush I saw very few " fly " 

 (tetse) this time (end of August), and in consequence lost only 

 three donkeys on the journey down. From that time on to 

 November or December is the safest to travel with animals 

 through " fly " country, when it is barest. All the rest of mine 

 reached Mombasa in splendid condition and perfect health. It 

 always pays to give special attention to one's animals ; and 

 whether trek oxen in South Africa or pack-donkeys in Equa- 

 torial Africa, I have ever devoted much care to mine and been 

 repaid by their keeping fat and fit. 



We crossed the river without mishap — this time the 

 impassable channel by a bridge — and, meeting fresh men 

 from the coast at Mtiya's with my messengers, were able to 

 continue our way with the whole of our effects from there. At 

 the little German mission station of Ikutha — the first outpost 

 of civilisation reached — though my kind old friend, Mr. 

 Sauberlich, had gone to Europe for a well-earned holiday, I 

 met with a not less hospitable reception from his successors, 

 Mr. and Mrs. Hoffman, than he had always given me, and the 

 most obliging and valuable assistance in obtaining supplies to 

 last us to the coast. I could not take the direct route through 

 the desert from the Athi to join the Uganda road at Samburu, 

 near the coast, as the water had all dried up ; but, having 

 travelled in former years all along that river, I knew that, by 

 following it farther down, I should get a path with water every 

 day to Mombasa, though a little longer ; and it is well worth 

 while going several days round, rather than risk suffering from 

 thirst, and possible disaster, with a heavy caravan. 



In followinef this river route — one little used — down the 



