PORTUGUESE EAST AFRICA 63 



the ammunition into the bush. He thereupon 

 burst in on his companions at Correa's Hotel 

 and exclaimed with pride, " Gentlemen, I have 

 taken Tete ! " 



How old Barreto's spirit must have raved if 

 indeed he stood sentinel that night on Kaliwera 

 Hill ! 



How are the mighty fallen ! The effeminate 

 lords of commerce have captured the glorious 

 life of conquest and battle. Instead of the 

 thunder of the cannon, the placid purr of the 

 stern-wheelers breaks the solemn silence of the 

 Zambesi. 



Machinery for the gold-mines of Chifumbaze 

 is brought up the great waterway instead of 

 conquerors. Ground-nuts and bees' -wax wend 

 their way seawards instead of slaves and savage 

 treasure. 



Thus may one's thoughts turn when the 

 silvery moon casts a sheen of splendour over the 

 Zambesi and lights up the spume from the s.s. 

 Sofala's stern wheels till it scintillates like a 

 dancing wave of diamonds on the bosom of the 

 water. 



The snow-white church of the Sacred Heart 

 stands out from the river banks spectre-like in 

 the moonlight, and on the quay a throng of 

 officers, civilians and natives, all arrayed in 

 white, wave lanterns to the incoming steamer. 



After all she is only coming up-river for a 

 cargo of monkey nuts. How unromantic it 

 seems ! Monkey nuts, indeed ! And when you 

 fall asleep that night you dream that the decks 

 of the Sofala are crowded with slaves and that 

 her hold is full of ivory and gold-dust. 



On July 14 we crossed the Zambesi, and as 

 the white walls and vari-tinted roofs clustering 



5 



