64 THE BONDS OF AFRICA 



along the river-bank faded into the dim distance, 

 we set our faces to the north with many regrets 

 and hngering memories of their lazy hospitality. 

 The boat-songs of our native servants, as they 

 pulled and punted, fell soft and musical on the 

 tropic air. 



We reached the north bank near Senhor Bevar's, 

 where a large number of boys were gathered, all 

 laden with graphite, which they had carried 

 down from Angonia. Right along the great 

 North Road from Tete to Fort Jameson signs 

 of commerce and industry are curiously inter- 

 mingled with barbarism and savagery. The 

 road is broad and well preserved. Portuguese 

 administration has spent thousands of pounds 

 on its construction and upkeep; for the Portu- 

 guese are as insistent about good roads in their 

 African territory as the Romans were in early 

 Britain. There is, too, a narrow pathway 

 running from the Zambesi to the frontier. This 

 track has been worn smooth by the tramping of 

 thousands and thousands of feet, and the greater 

 part of the magnificent highway is never trodden. 



There was some very hilly country to be 

 traversed for our first day or two after leaving 

 the Zambesi ; but our porters stuck well to their 

 task. These carriers had been recruited for us 

 by the Companhia da Zambesia. We had been 

 warned that they might endeavour to bolt, so we 

 kept a watchful eye on them; but one or two 

 turned out to be really excellent servants, and 

 two went right up to Lake Bangweolo with me. 



Two days after we had seen the last of the 

 Zambesi we reached Chiuta, a Portuguese military 

 post. Chiuta lies in rough, hilly country, and 

 was commanded by a puny little sergeant pos- 

 sessed of tremendous pride in his responsibility. 



