IN WILTSHIRE 309 



trying for want of what Dr Johnson declared to 

 be one of the most charming features in any 

 landscape. It is a precious long way between 

 the chances for a drink, even if you count water 

 in that category. 



But plenty of refreshment of another sort is 

 on hand. Refreshing it is to get on the ridges 

 under the woodside, or on a drive, such as one 

 that runs for seven or eight miles straightway 

 from Wilton, as wide as a cricket pitch, mostly 

 turf, and edged with graceful birches, stout oaks, 

 and freely-grown spruces. You don't want a 

 boundless contiguity of shade if you may find a 

 way hke this, with one bosky side always so far 

 as my rambles went. Besides, with the aforesaid 

 contiguity you won't see much. Wild flowers 

 are not likely to flourish unless the sun can get 

 at them, nor is there much animated nature in 

 work under such circumstances. Very little of 

 that sort of animation do you find on these 

 ranges, unless it is among the inferior animals. 

 For that reason it is advisable first of all to learn 

 how the points of the compass lie before you set 

 out, and at that not to lose your way. You may 

 go a tedious while and not see a soul. Much 

 labour must be employed, as the fine crops of 

 wheat, oats, and barley testified. I never saw 

 such good ones on hill land like this before, but 

 all the same you may go for miles without coming 

 across a soul to speak to. That I don't mind, 

 and never did, though it is quite as well to know 

 that if you did happen to sprain your ankle you 

 would probably be found in a day or two. The 

 desolation of a very great part of England 

 preaches a strong sermon on centralisation, does 

 it not? Some of the sermon preached itself to 



