212 FROM THE NIGER TO THE NILE 



Sudan. On my arrival tlie Emir sent me a large " dash " 

 consisting of a sheep and eggs, and a good supply of meal for 

 the " boys." I sent him my thanks and told him that I 

 would pay him a visit the following day. He is a powerful 

 ruler and keeps up a good show of state, living in a large 

 palace built in the Egyptian style which I have spoken of 

 in a former reference to Fulani architecture. 



On my arrival at the palace gate, the serikin-fada, or king's 

 messenger, stepped out from a group of big men who were 

 assembled in the shade of a spreading tree, and throwing 

 open the doors of the palace, went in to tell the Emir that I 

 had come. Presently he came out to greet me, preceded by 

 his dogari, or executioner, who shouted in a hoarse, hollow 

 voice the praises of his king ; saying what a very big man he 

 was and what big things he had done. The alkali, or chief 

 judge, was at the king's side, and around him stood mallams 

 and councillors and a large retinue. He shook hands with me 

 and then led the way in, passing through a large, lofty hall with 

 a groined roof of mud, so discoloured with age that the arches 

 had the appearance of old oak beams. Then we passed 

 through a courtyard and an ante-chamber to his state room 

 where his attendants let him down on to a mat of skins. 

 He then proceeded to converse, addressing me as " Big 

 white man from over the sea, bound on a long journey," 

 and " Big man with two big boats and a many- voiced 

 trumpet." I liked the allusion to the gramophone, so I 

 asked him if he would like to hear the trumpet speak, to 

 which he eagerly said " Yes." Then the gramophone was 

 brought out and set to work with most gratifying effect, for 

 his habitually stern countenance relaxed, and he appeared 



