302 FROM THE NIGER TO THE NILE 



or lowan as he is called, was away at the time, but had made 

 arrangements for our reception by the order of the Shehu. 

 Here we found square shelters of zana matting put up for 

 our use in one of the open places of the town, and a large 

 " dash " of ground millet for the men, and eggs and fowls for 

 ourselves. The tea that accompanied our " chop " never 

 went down more deliciously, for our tongues and throats were 

 by now as rough as sand-paper. 



At about three o'clock in the afternoon the harmattan 

 drops as suddenly as it springs, and on this day, to our great 

 relief, it made no exception. The atmosphere gradually 

 cleared and at six the sun went down in a fiery, crimson 

 glory, which shot along the horizon, sending a flush far up 

 into the sky that paled to gold, and higher faded into green. 

 These wonderful sunsets are a characteristic accompaniment 

 of the harmattan, caused by the myriads of dust particles in 

 the air. 



Kowa is a large village, or I suppose we ought to dignify 

 it with the name of town, since it has an important market 

 just outside on the road to Kukawa. 



Here the principal trade is done in potash and dried fish, 

 which are brought up by Kanembus from the Buduma fish- 

 market, some fourteen miles distant on Lake Chad. The 

 latter place is called by the Budumas Kowa Baga, which 

 means the market for Kowa. Besides the market, there are 

 dyeing pits and also a place for curing skins and leather making. 



Kowa is the capital of an important district governed by 

 the Lowan, a by no means insignificant chief, ruling over 

 the Kanembus and Budumas, who are loyal to him, for he 

 treats them well. 



