REBELLION DESTRUCTION 97 



gical, commercial and social interests of Northern 

 Shensi, centre in a large loess basin, through which 

 lies the lower course of the Wei River." During 

 the Mohammedan rebellion, which left such terrible 

 traces in Shensi, the destruction was greatest here, 

 for here the hills were more remote and the 

 wretched inhabitants had no refuge to which they 

 could fly. The loss of life was estimated by 

 millions. Although many years ago now, one 

 often hears of it ; and travelling through a country 

 of the antiquity of China, it seemed to me that 

 only a few short years had elapsed. 



In one place were some really magnificent 

 weeping willows, which must have measured over 

 twenty feet in circumference. For the first few 

 days after leaving Feng-siang, our route was 

 entirely through loess country. We crossed one 

 narrow gully by means of a frail bridge constructed 

 of mud and sticks. No Chinaman would ever 

 dream of repairing such a structure save for his 

 own personal convenience. It seemed pretty shaky 

 as we went over it, and almost immediately after- 

 wards collapsed beneath the weight of a mule 

 litter. Litter, occupant, and mules were shot 

 down in a smother of dust, and after a little 

 difficulty extricated. Fortunately they were not 

 hurt. 



The western border of Shensi is a great fruit- 

 growing district. Peach orchards gave variety to 

 the landscape, and we constantly met men with 

 baskets of the fruit balanced on bamboo poles. 

 We also ate some most delicious melons, which 

 possessed as delicate a flavour as any hot-house 

 specimens. 



