178 A THIBETAN INTERLUDE 



could be found. The only concession they granted 

 was that we might stray for two days, the headmen 

 and lamas guaranteeing the behaviour of their 

 people for this period. Then we must go. It 

 was not the least use staying in the horrid little 

 place unless we could hunt, so we decided to leave 

 on the morrow. 



The dislike of these people to foreigners is not 

 altogether unnatural. But few can talk their 

 language, and they do not understand us. A 

 German explorer boasted that during his journey 

 along the border he had had thirteen "battles" 

 with the Thibetans, in one of which he knew for 

 certain he had killed four men. 



The day was filled up by entertaining relays of 

 inhabitants, who came pouring in to inspect us and 

 our belongings. The Drocwas, in whose country 

 we were, are a fine-looking lot, at least, the lay- 

 men, and, with their jauntily- worn sheepskin caps, 

 leopard-skin collars, long swords, steel-sheathed 

 dirks, and touches of barbaric finery, are as wild 

 a set of semi-civilised barbarians as I have ever 

 seen. One young fellow in particular, dressed as 

 I have described, with a frank, open face, was very 

 friendly, and received with joy a couple of pears. 

 To mark his appreciation he drew his finger across 

 his throat and held up one thumb. Another 

 gentleman produced a large *450 revolver from the 

 depths of his waistband, fully loaded. I hope for 

 his own sake that he is never compelled to use it, 

 for it will prove quite as dangerous to himself as 

 his opponent. 



There was another old worthy among the crowd 

 busily knitting. He was much interested in my 



