226 RUMOURS OF WAR 



On November 21st we reached Wa-kang, a small 

 straggling muddy town, entered by an arched gate 

 at the end of a long ravine. It is in the centre 

 of a large coal district, and the male population 

 are either colliers or tile-makers. A Chinese 

 collier somehow strikes the observer as an in- 

 congruity. 



It was at this place during the preceding year 

 that an Indian surveyor who accompanied the 

 Clarke expedition was killed. 



Just as we were leaving the next morning, a dirty- 

 looking ruffian suddenly rushed up to the doctor, 

 seized him by the ankles and began kow-towing 

 and grovelling, all the while pouring out supplica- 

 tions and prayers which we were at a loss to under- 

 stand. It transpired that his assistant, succumb- 

 ing to overwhelming greed, had appropriated an 

 empty bottle which had once held curry powder. 

 The doctor had threatened to report him to the 

 officials at Lanchow, and the suppliant was implor- 

 ing mercy on his behalf. Leaving him prostrate, 

 we set out and, five hours later, reached the 

 capital, exactly one week after starting from 

 Choni. 



