DEPARTURE FROM LEH. 29 



Taghdumbash, and return to Kashmir by Chitral 

 and Gilghit in early winter. 



Having laid in a stock of cotton goods, consist- 

 ing of chogas, lungis, prints, muslin, and coloured 

 handkerchiefs, to exchange with the natives for 

 sheep, milk, butter, &c., we started on July 27, 

 very glad to be off at last. We sent the kit on 

 early, and at 2 P.M. ordered our ponies to be 

 saddled. This we found easier said than done. 

 Our animals were of the Kalmuk breed, who 

 possess a great deal of character, and that not 

 of the best. They objected most strongly to the 

 proceeding, no doubt knowing by hard and bitter 

 experience what a sore back was like, and 

 preferring to eat green lucerne in orchards in 

 Ladak to living on two tea-cups of barley per 

 diem, varied with what burtsa they could pick 

 up on the road. After blindfolding, twitching, 

 tying up legs, and all sorts of dodges, we 

 succeeded in getting into the saddle, and bade 

 adieu to our kind friend the Commissioner. 



We found our camp already pitched at the foot 

 of the Khardung, at an altitude of 16,000 feet, 

 and very considerably colder than at Leh. At 

 break of day we began to climb the pass, which 

 resembles many others in the far Himalayas, 



