CROSSING THE ZARAFSHAN. 59 



could float our raft across. In the late autumn 

 and winter it ran low, and was fordable in many 

 places. The gorge through which it runs is, I 

 think, the finest I ever saw, and even beats that 

 of the Chimdra Baga, in Pangi, huge mountains 

 of black rock rising sheer up on each side, and so 

 narrow that the river seems to have cut its way 

 through. 



Meanwhile Barat had made arrangements with 

 some men whose business it was to ferry across 

 the river, unpacked the skins, and cut some poles 

 to form the raft, so that there was nothing further 

 to be done until morning. We got up early, and 

 found that Barat had gone to the ferry to put the 

 raft together. He left word for us not to hurry, 

 as it would take some time ; so we breakfasted 

 at our ease before striking camp, then loading 

 up the ponies, we went to the crossing-place. 

 There we found quite a crowd assembled on the 

 opposite side, of all the principal men of Sirikul, 

 who lived at a place called Tung, situated on a 

 small river of that name in the valley in which 

 the town stood. The Hakim Beg, or governor 

 of the province, was conspicuous amongst them ; 

 also the Shan Beggi, or vice-governor, and various 

 other big men of sorts, all attired in their best 



