THE COUNTRY PEOPLE. 143 



The jungle improved in size and growth as 

 we got farther on. Formerly the forest had 

 extended to Yarkand, but in course of years it 

 had been cleared for timber and firewood. 



I took a great fancy to the country people, and 

 found them very much nicer than those in the 

 towns, who were independent and grasping, while 

 with the villagers some cotton print and a few 

 handkerchiefs were always received with delight, 

 and were the only things the hospitable souls 

 would accept. On entering a village they would 

 just look at you, and wonder who you were, and 

 did not bother you as they did in the towns, 

 where the Chinamen would hop up to you like a 

 jackdaw, and after looking you over, begin to 

 pull about your things, now and again making a 

 remark in an abrupt impertinent way. They will 

 walk into your room without knocking, examine 

 your property, and even take the pipe out of 

 your mouth and have a pull at it ! This, I was 

 told, was rather a sign of goodwill than otherwise. 



Chinese Turkistan is filled with the scum of 

 the Chinese population, as, excepting the officials, 

 who are not amiss, the small traders and soldiers 

 are all criminals and bad characters of sorts, who 

 are offered the alternative of a prison in China or 



