156 FROM YARKAND TO AKSU. 



to go to the caravanserai, which is generally dirty 

 and cold, and perhaps full of vagrants, so that 

 you have neither peace nor privacy. 



On my arrival I was shown into the serai, and 

 a very cold dreary place it was ; but on my ex- 

 pressing disapproval of these quarters, they told 

 me there was no other place fit for my reception. 

 These buildings are all of the same type a large 

 yard surrounded by a high wall with double en- 

 trance-gates ; a row of stables round the walls, 

 with small feeding-troughs for ponies ; a block of 

 mud-brick buildings at the far end, consisting 

 generally of three good-sized rooms opening one 

 into the other ; no doors ; windows of open lattice- 

 work ; and a hole in the roof for the smoke to go 

 out, which in these establishments it always fails 

 to do! 



As I intended remaining a day, I made the 

 best I could of the place, hanging up mundas 

 in the doorways, blocking the windows, and light- 

 ing a blazing fire, which for a wonder burnt all 

 right. 



I had a visit from an official of the Amban's, 

 asking the usual questions and wanting to see 

 my passport, which, having given to Bower, I 

 was unable to produce, but explained that my 



