AKSU. 163 



boot-shops and coppersmiths were very numer- 

 ous, and I was told that for boots and copper 

 chagones (teapots) Aksu was justly celebrated. 

 In the centre of the city was "the Russian 

 serai, where I was received by the Russian 

 Aksakal, and shown into a comfortable room 

 well spread with mundas and a good fire blaz- 

 ing on the hearth. This was quite the best 

 serai I had seen in the country, having good 

 rooms with verandahs all round, and a separate 

 yard with stable accommodation. The Aksakal 

 was a very good-looking gentlemanly man, al- 

 most European in his manners, well dressed in 

 a dark cloth choga lined with fur, a fur cap, and 

 well - made high boots. As soon as we were 

 seated a collation of dried fruit, bread, and tea 

 was brought in. 1 To these I did full justice 

 after my long morning's tramp ; and then, light- 

 ing my pipe, we settled down for a good talk. 

 He gave me full information as to the sport and 

 shikaris, and kindly took my passport to the 

 yaman or palace of the Dotai and Amban, who 

 lived in the Yangi-Shahar. 



I then received visits from various merchants 



1 Grapes, melons, apples, &c., are preserved through the winter 

 in a species of silo. 



