KALMUKS. 189 



on until about half-way to that capital, when we 

 made a halt in a tract of low thin forest, where 

 there was grass and water, but not a dry stick to 

 be found : while hunting about for some, I came 

 upon a Kalmuki camp, and as they offered to 

 supply me with wood, and as there was a well 

 handy, I made my camp near them. They helped 

 me to pitch the tents, and brought milk as well 

 as wood and water. 



These people were very pleasing, so good- 

 tempered and jolly quite a contrast to the lazy 

 curious Chinese or the apathetic Turki. They 

 live m yurts like those of the Kirghiz, and were 

 altogether nomads ; for until the Chinese built a 

 palace for the Khan, there was not such a thing 

 as a house in the country. They do not culti- 

 vate at all, living on the produce of their flocks. 

 Their habits, unfortunately, are dirty, and they 

 are very fond of the filthy drink with which the 

 Chinese supply them, and incessantly smoke a 

 strong green tobacco. Their religion is Lama 

 Buddhism ; and they neither bury nor cremate 

 their dead, simply lay out the corpse, which it 

 is the duty of the dogs to eat, outside their 

 camp. It does so happen that sometimes even 

 the dogs refuse this gruesome meal, which they 



