IN KALMUK. 193 



We took a northerly direction across the Kal- 

 muki plain, over several stony moraines, until we 

 came to the mouth of a deep gorge through which 

 a fair-sized river ran. There was a pretty good 

 pony-road running through it, which led to Um- 

 rutsi. Our guide said he constantly went trading 

 expeditions by it to that place from Karachar, 

 where he lived. There were three passes to 

 cross, none difficult, although one was pretty 

 high, and the road was open all the way, the 

 only hardship being the total absence of fuel 

 after the first three stages, there being about 

 ten in all. 



It was a very fine gorge, with great barren 

 cliffs of dark granite rising on each side, and at 

 the bottom along the river, grass and jungle, in 

 which grew poplar, aspen, and willow. But the 

 wind blew down it cold and bleak from the snows 

 above ; so that when, towards evening, we got to 

 a snug - looking camping - ground under a high 

 cliff, and a fine lot of dead wood in the river-bed, 

 we were glad to rest over a blazing fire, while the 

 ponies were well provided with grass. 



Two nullahs joined the valley farther up, after 

 which the country opened out, with grass-prairies 

 and variegated belts of timber. On these prairies 



N 



