CAMPING IN KALMUK. 195 



precipitous than lower down, and covered with the 

 same species of fine grass which is found on the 

 lower pamirs, and is highly prized for grazing. 



In passing a Kalmuki camp, one of the men 

 came to see who I was, and when he heard what I 

 had come for, told me that a few days previously 

 some arkars, or female Ovis, were in the hills 

 above, and offered to show me the ground ; but 

 on telling him that I only wanted gooljas, he said 

 I should have to go a long way, where the ground 

 was covered with snow, and where the cold was 

 so intense we could not possibly exist, owing to 

 the total absence of fuel. As the sun was shin- 

 ing, and there was not much wind, I rather 

 laughed at the idea ; but when the sun went 

 down shortly after, and a strong wind came 

 down the valley, I began to realise the situation. 

 Though the camp was placed in the most shel- 

 tered spot to be found, bad was the best ; and 

 though we had brought a small supply of wood 

 for cooking purposes, my cook complained he 

 could neither get the water to boil nor the food 

 to cook. At last I got some sort of a meal ; but 

 the cold was now so intense I could not sit up to 

 smoke a pipe, therefore turned in with all my 

 clothes on, and all the rugs and sheepskins over 



