212 EXPEDITION TO KALMUK. 



best house we could find in a village called 

 Barmi, we spent the first night there. 



The next place we came to was Achtagh, 

 at the extremity of a range of rocky hills 

 which come down from the west and enclose 

 the valley in which Ushturfan is situated on 

 the south. To the north we saw the great 

 Tian Shan range, still covered with snow nearly 

 to the base. This was the favourite summer 

 residence of Yakub Beg. The remains of the 

 fort where he lived, and which had been de- 

 stroyed by the Chinese, were still visible. Pass- 

 ing through the karaol at the entrance of a fair- 

 sized bazaar, we were now in the Ushturfan 

 district, and reached the town itself in another 

 day's journey. 



The Amban of Aksu had sent word to the 

 Chankoo, another name for the ruler of the 

 district, announcing my visit. He sent out an 

 Aksakal to escort me into the town, and conduct 

 me to my place of residence the usual Chinese 

 pattern of guest-house, without either doors or 

 windows, situated in a good-sized orchard. 



Soon after, the Chankoo's Tunktchi appeared 

 to announce that the great man would shortly 

 pay me a visit. This was very civil, but rather 



