THE PLAINS OF FARGHANA. 269 



them being Russian, who with many apologies 

 asked to see my passport and to examine my 

 goods, in which he had a right-down good worry, 

 impounding a few cotton handkerchiefs, to which 

 I made him very welcome, having no further use 

 for them myself! It was a relief to find my gun 

 and rifles were not questioned at all. 



The temperature that evening was charming. 

 We had descended to a level of about 5000 feet ; 

 and the softness of the air was very grateful after 

 the biting cold on the high ranges. 



Passing Uch Kurghan, at the mouth of the 

 valley, the plains of Farghana at last came in sight, 

 and I realised the final pass was crossed, and the 

 next day would be spent in a Russian canton- 

 ment. The caravan would be dismissed, and, 

 what seemed still more odd, I should be travel- 

 ling off to Europe in a post-chaise ! 



This plain is very similar to the plains of 

 Chinese Turkistan the same irrigated cultivated 

 flats, broad stony steppes, and undulating sandhills. 



It was a good twenty-five miles to Marghilan, 

 and the rain began to fall soon after our start, so 

 that by the time we arrived we were soaking 

 wet. On entering the town, Jaffer inquired for 

 the rest-house, as I felt diffident of making use 



