^^THHOP. PAP. ^jjj, WAHNENAUHI MANUSCRIPT — KILPATRICK 191 



The hunting-shirt was worn wrapped tightly around and folded 

 over the chest, fastened with a belt around the waist. 



Belts, in later years, came to be very much prized, being worn 

 as an ornament. 



They were made of bright colored worsted yam interwoven with 

 white beads, and were several yards in length, so as to fold many times 

 around the body, they were worn tied at the left side, the ends, orna- 

 mented with tassels, hung nearly to the knees. Garters, made to 

 match the belt were tied over the leggins below the knees, the tasseled 

 ends left dangling. 



The women wore a skirt and short jacket, with leggins and mocca- 

 sins, the jacket was fastened in front with silver broaches, the skirt 

 was fringed and either painted or embroidered with beads, and the 

 moccasins were trimmed with beads, in many colors. Their hair, 

 they combed smooth and close, then folded into a club at the back 

 of the head, and tied very tight with a piece of dried eel-skin, which 

 was said to make the hair grow long. 



The men, in cutting their hair, always left the lock growing on the 

 crown of the head, this was braided and hung down the back. It was 

 caUed a "coo-tlah." [''] 



Both sexes were fond of wearing ornaments. Some wore broad 

 bands of silver on the arms above the elbows, and on the wrists and 

 ankles, they wore rings on their fingers, and in the nose, and ears; 

 I have seen old men with holes made in their ears from the lower edge 

 to the very top; P^] I never saw them wear more than two pair of 

 ear-rings at one time. They liked very much to wear beads around 

 their necks. [^*1 



Their dwellings were sometimes made by bending down saplings 

 and tying the tops together and filling in between with poles tied with 

 bark and interwoven with cane or withes, and a space left open for a 

 door, also a small opening near the top for smoke to escape. 



For winter sleeping room, the saplings were bent quite low, making 

 the hut not more than four or five feet high in the centre; after 

 finishing off as the other, it was thickly daubed on the outside with 

 mud, leaving only a small opening near the ground, large enough for 

 a man to creep through ; a large fire, of bark and dry sticks, was made, 

 and when burned up, the ashes and embers were taken out, and two 

 persons crawled in, and, with turkey wings, fanned out all the smoke, 

 and closed the entrance by hanging a skin over it. 



'» This word appears to have dropped out of the vocabulary of the Oklahoma Cherokees. 



" The portrait, reputed to be that of Major Lowrey, in the Thomas Qilcrease Institute of American 

 History and Art, Tulsa, Okla., is highly informative (pi. 2). 



»* Wahnenauhl's statements as to early 19th-century Cherokee dress are strongly supported by the brushes 

 of Francis Parsons, George Cathn, and John Mix Stanley. Throughout this whole passage there is some 

 confusion of dress at the time of contact with what the author saw in her childhood. The scalp lock, for 

 example, she may never have actually seen. 



