16 TEXTILE FABEICS OF ANCIENT PERU. 



Amoug the most remarkable work I may mention the fabrics in wliich 

 dual series of warp and woof threads are combined. 



In a fine, richly decorated example in the collection of the National 

 Museum the warp and the woof each consists of a brown and a white 

 series alternating, thread for thread, and the patterns are fill solid 

 brown or solid white. While the two browns are employed on one side 

 weaving a brown figure, the two whites are on the other side inde- 

 pendently weaving a corresponding white figure. The two layers of 

 stuff, the white and the brown, are therefore entirely free over the area 

 of a single pattern or color area, but are connected at the margin of the 

 figures where the two series of threads cross each other in passing to 

 opposite sides. 



This cloth also shows all the figures as transparencies when held up 

 to the light, since at the crossings of threads from back to front slight 

 openings occur. 



In another style of weaving an auxiliary series of threads is carried 

 loosely across the wrong side of the goods to be brought through to the 

 right surface, when a figure in that color is desired. This is used in 

 fabrics intended to expose only the one surface, as in bags, banners, etc. 



Hardly less interesting are some superb pieces of stuff, in which the 

 colored patterns are produced by carrying along a supplementary series 

 of warp threads, which appear only on the right side of the cloth, where 

 they are held in place by passing at proper intervals under threads of 

 the woof. The effect is precisely the same as that of embroidery in 

 which the colored threads are attached by lifting the surface threads 

 and passing them under. Indeed, in some cases it is difficult to say 

 whether the ornament is woven in or embroidered. The skill exhibited 

 is truly marvelous. 



The ancient peoples were exceedingly fond of fringes, and some of their 

 tasseled garments are marvels of elaboration. A large mantle now in my 

 possession has a compound foundation fabric of i>atchwork and passe- 

 menterie work, consisting upon the surface of separately woven ro- 

 settes, into which faces or geometric figures are worked, and upon which 

 a multitude of tassels and clusters of tassels are fixed. The fringe, 

 Fig. 11, consists of clusters of tassels, and is upward of 20 inches long. 



The head of each i)rincipal tassel represents rudely a human or auimal 

 head, the features being in relief and in color. There are upwards of 

 three thousand tassels in all, and years must have been consumed in 

 the execution of the garment. 



Marvelous skill was shown in the manufacture of very attenuated 

 articles, such as bands and cords. Thus slings, which were in some 

 cases made of raw hide or simple cords, were often braided of colored 

 wools in the most tasteful manner imaginable. Ornamental cords were 

 woven, one of which is nearly half an inch in diameter, the surface con- 

 sisting of a dense, richly colored pile, giving the effect of a fine plush. 



So skillful had these workmen become that various animal forms were 

 woven or knitted in the round. I have seen figures of llamas, dogs, etc., 



