12 



TEXTILE FABRICS OF ANCIENT PERU. 



We find that tliis was the method almost universally employed in 

 richly decorated stuifs, and for the reason no doubt that complex pat- 

 terns and pictorial efl'ects are much more easily achieved by this than 

 by any other method. In plain weaving, where two series of filaments, 

 the web and the woof, are employed, the best possible texture for simple 

 utility is produced. Both series connect more or less completely across 

 the piece and are interlaced approximately at right angles, giving great 

 strength to the work ; but designs, excepting checkers and plain geo- 

 metric figures, are introduced with much difficulty. 



The gobelins style partakes of the nature of embroidery, and patterns 

 of various kinds are worked out with comparative ease. 



The Peruvian workman stretched his series of warp threads side by 

 side, usually twenty or thirty to the inch, between two holding-rods, 

 and upon this warp as a foundation he began his fabrics. It seems that 

 he did not begin as in ordinary weaving at one end of the piece, carry- 

 ing the work uniformly thread by thread to the other end, but worked 

 more or less in patches, setting in independently one entire bit of color, 

 carrying the yarn back and forth over that area and jiressing it down 

 until the web was entirely hidden and both sides of the work exhibited 

 the same figure. Other patches of color were added to this until the de- 

 sired pattern was developed. 



Fig. 7. — Analysis of the weaving of life forms in tapestry. 



As a result of the peculiar methods employed some unusual effects were 

 produced, two of whicli need further elucidation. The most notable 

 feature is the open-work effect characteristic of these fabrics. Holding 

 a piece up against the light, the figures appear partly outlined as trans- 

 parencies, the effect being very pleasing. In all cases the slits consti- 

 tuting the open work are found to run icitli the warp and occur where 

 the outlines of the color areas follow the warp. 



The conditions giving rise to these slits may be readily illustrated. 



