DENSMORKj CHIPPEWA MUSIC II 223 



the first, second, fifth, and sixth tones of the diatonic scale, the third 

 being omitted. This is fully considered in the analysis of No. 53. 

 The interval of the fourth is prominent and has been noted in other 

 songs concernmg motion (see No. 22). Thus we find in the analysis 

 of this melody a peculiarity noted in other songs composed by women 

 and in other songs concerning motion. 



At the time this song was used the Chippewa women were wearing 

 the old, tribal style of dress. Mrs. Gauthier recalled her mother's 

 description of this dress, and the costume she wears (pi. 30) was made 

 under her own direction, no fewer than seven Chippewa women con- 

 tributing their skill. The several parts of the costume (dress, sleeves, 

 leggings, sash, headband, and moccasins) are shown in plates 31-35. 

 Before securing broadcloth the Chippewa made a garment of similar 

 design from a blanket. E'niwiib'e offered to explain this to the 

 writer and requested his wife to stand while he put a blanket 

 around her, fastening it at the waist wdth a scarf and arranging long 

 folds under each ami to dispose of the fullness. His wife meriily 

 agreed that he remembered the dress she wore when they both were 

 young. The surplus length of the blanket was folded over and allowed 

 to hang loosely on the chest, the garment being held in place by 

 shoulder bands. In the old days the only ornamentation was on this 

 piece which hung over the chest, the depth of which depended on the 

 height of the person. Later, when broadcloth was used for the gar- 

 ment, this was replaced by a strip of that material, beaded, and still 

 later by beaded velvet. The sash worn by Mrs. Gauthier is of yarn, 

 woven in an ancient manner by the wife of E'niwiib'e, the singer. 



A somewhat later type of Chippewa woman's dress is shown in plate 

 16. This costume is decorated at the hem of the skirt, a style said to 

 be comparatively recent, and the sleeves, instead of being separate, 

 are joined together in the back to form a short jacket. The floral 

 designs which form the decoration of Mrs. Gauthier's costume (pis. 

 30, 32, 35) are typical of the designs in use among the Chippewa at 

 the present time, which are frequently copied from natural leaves 

 and flowers. Similar designs appear in plates 11, 20, and 39. A 

 floral design said to be older than these may be seen on the sleeve 

 pieces of the woman's costume in plate 16 ; these pieces were brought 

 from Mille Lac many years ago. It is said that geometric designs 

 preceded floral patterns among the Chippewa. Perhaps the simplest 

 of the former was the '' zigzag pattern," which is shown on the piece 

 across the chest, in the woman's costume in plate 16 and also on the 

 ma'kuk (pi. 37). The "star pattern" is said to have been originally 

 a dream symbol (pi. 33). The decoration on Odjib'we's war drum 

 also was the outcome of a dream (see p. 62). 



Plate 35 shows the type of moccasin now in use among the Chip- 

 pewa, and plate 36 the type from which some writers have believed 



