50 INSTITUTE OF SOCIAL ANTHROPOLOGY—PUBLICATION NO. 4 
broidered on the back, having the appearance of a 
butterfly, or, what is more likely, a bat, which was an 
ancient symbol of the ruling family of the Cak- 
chiquels.*® Atitecos said they formerly wore the 
striped coat (without the bat) before blue ones be- 
came the preferred style, “more than 25 years ago” 
(about 1910). A picture in Maudslay’s book (1899, 
pp. 43, 60) shows the old striped coats in about the 
year 1894, Atitlan municipal officials always wear 
or carry a capixai, when away from headquarters. 
Hats.—A palm hat, usually high-crowned (narrow 
and tapering) and fairly broad-brimmed, is com- 
monly worn by men of the Lake villages. In some 
of the villages a white or, more commonly, colored 
(usually red), cotton gute, or square cloth, is 
wrapped around as a hatband (Solola, Panajachel, 
old style; Santa Cruz, some; San Pablo; Santa Cata- 
rina Palopdé, some; San Antonio Palop6, occasional). 
Many inhabitants of certain municipios wear dark 
felt hats, usually black (San Pedro, Santiago, Nahu- 
ala—Santa Catarina Ixtahuacan). In the latter two 
villages, the men also wear a bowllike hat covered 
with beeswax (?) for waterproofing. Hat styles vary 
somewhat with municipios, and often, as at Solola, 
they differ greatly within them. The older hats seem 
to have had wider crowns, and they were more 
cylindrical and flat-topped than modern ones. (See 
pls. 6, 7.) 
Sandals—Most Indian men, especially when on 
the trail, wear sandals, having simple leather soles, 
single heel thong and toe thong attached between the 
great toe and second toe (pl. 7; for rubber-tire 
sandals, see pl. 42, d). Some more elaborate models 
have broad, plain or serrate-edged guards over the 
instep (Santiago Atitlan, 1894, 1936; Chichicaste- 
nango). An old Atiteco disparaged the wearing 
of sandals, saying that they were uncommon in his 
youth (about 1900-1910). Many of Maudslay’s 
pictures (1899, pp. 21, 43, opposite p. 48) show 
sandals of the same type as those worn now, how- 
ever, though they appear to have been less common 
then than today, and appear to have been worn 
almost exclusively by Indians on the trail. Shoes 
are rarely worn, and then primarily by men of the 
Quezaltenango—Totonicapan region. 
Santo Tomas Chichicastenango.—One of the 
most uniform and distinctive men’s costumes is that 
7 Brinton (1885, pp. 39-40) states that ‘‘according to the Popol 
Vuh, ‘the chief god of the Cakchiquels was Chamalcan, and his image 
was a bat.’ (Popol Vuh, p. 224) .- .” The bat, Zotz, was the 
totem of the Zotzils, the ruling family of the Cakchiquels. 
of Santo Tomas Chichicastenango and Chiché (pls. 
8, b; 14, e). It is strikingly like certain early types 
worn in the Spanish provinces of Leon, New Castile, 
and Old Castile. The outer garments are of natural 
black wool, a short slip-over jacket and knee pants 
with characteristic lateral flanges, which like many 
other points on the suit, are elaborately embroidered 
(men’s work) with bright-colored silk thread. The 
sun design with radiating, variegated lines, is par- 
ticularly common. A white, buttoned shirt and 
bright red sash are also worn. When on the trail, 
especially if the destination is Lowland, Maxefios 
frequently discard this warm garment in favor of 
light cotton ankle-length trousers and shirt (pls. 13, 
ce 14) 0). 
Todos Santos Cuchumatan.®°—The dress of 
Todos Santos Cuchumatan men is equally distinctive 
(pl. 31, a). Long, wide-bottom cotton trousers and 
large-collared shirt are striped or checked with broad 
red bands on white. Over this is worn a short jacket 
of natural black wool (rapidly being replaced by 
modern blue or gray coat) and trousers that are cut 
away for the full length in front. A broad-brimmed, 
low-crowned straw hat, often with a factory-made 
red bandana under it, tied around the head; and 
sandals that look like shoes with the top of the 
entire toe area removed, complete this distinctive 
attire. With the blue coats adopted in recent years, 
they have been appropriately nicknamed “Uncle Sam 
boys” by tourists from the United States. The 
material in the coats is woven in Momostenango. 
San Martin Sacatepequez (“Chile Verde” ).— 
Men of San Martin wear long monklike white cotton 
robes which reach nearly to the ankles and are 
fringed at the bottom (pl. 39, c). These garments 
are generally red-striped with red and yellow em- 
bossed sleeves and elaborate wide red sash (ends 
hang at the back, center), upon which are woven | 
figures of many geometric designs and colors (espe- 
cially yellow and lavender). Over this at times is 
worn a black wool capixai. Hats are of felt, usually 
black, or of straw, high-crowned. Frequently, only 
large zutes are worn on the head, loosely knotted or 
merely draped, and flowing behind, Arab-fashion. 
Sandals have several straps and buckles. The entire 
effect is extremely similar to the dress of the Patztim 
men of 1894, illustrated and described by Mrs. — 
Maudslay (1899, p. 42). No vestige of this costume 
80 Though living in the Cuchumatanes Mountains, outside the area 
covered in this monograph, Todos Santos men and women frequently — 
appear in southwestern markets. 
