CULTURAL AND HISTORICAL GEOGRAPHY OF SOUTHWEST GUATEMALA—McBRYDE 163 
single wide and single narrow ones alternating, and 
shirts are heavy dark blue with occasional fine light 
lines (made in Solola). The Santa Cruz women’s 
huipil is mainly red, with two narrow vertical white 
lines spaced about 3 inches apart, and a fine ircaco 
brown line on each side of the white pair. The collar 
is generally embroidered with alternating bands of 
yellow and lavender silk, and large triangles (prob- 
ably representing tassels) of the same color, pointing 
inward. A narrow head band is worn, with yellow and 
green bars, like that of Santiago. These were said 
to be made at San José Chacaya. Skirts are of 
heavy, solid blue, Solola cloth. San Pablo women, 
who do less weaving than is done in most Lake vil- 
lages, wear a plain white blouse similar to that of 
San Pedro (usually of manufactured goods, with 
separate, scalloped collar, and often embroidered with 
rows of small figures), and a solid, heavy, dark-blue 
skirt from Solola. For the San Pedro women’s dress, 
see plate 9, d. The blue and variegated jaspe-pattern 
skirt is from Quezaltenango. The Patzim_ huipil 
has very wide (about 2-inch) vertical alternating red 
and white (usually wider) stripes. Each white stripe 
has a narrow (about one-quarter inch) red (also 
yellow or green) one in the center. Fine green and 
yellow lines also border the red. There is a purple 
silk appliquéd collar (ribbon sewn on), with small 
triangles of various solid colors (mainly green, yellow, 
and purple; sometimes cerise and white) as at Santa 
Cruz Laguna. An extra huipil serves as a sutfe, as in 
many other Highland municipios. Skirts are blue, 
jaspe patterned. Men wear costumes similar to those 
of Tecpan (pl. 12, a, right). 
The crescentic shaded area in Lake Atitlan represents water 
deeper than 1,000 feet. For other map data, see map 
20. The miniature inset map in the lower left shows 
(in black) the location of the Lake region with respect 
to South Guatemala. 
PLATE 7 
a and b, Trousers and shirts are usually woven on stick 
- looms by women, though Cantel-manufactured cloth 
in imitation of the pattern is being used to some extent 
as a substitute (p. 66). The cloth is of cotton, white 
with wide red stripes (or ixcaco brown with blue) 
and narrow green and yellow, In the shirts it is 
gathered to a thin red collar. Sleeves and zute (large 
square cotton cloth wrapped around hat) are com- 
monly red with yellow and green (sometimes also blue 
jaspe) stripes. Sometimes the stick-loom cloth is 
decorated with small brocaded figures of birds, dolls, 
and animals, especially near the bottoms of the 
trousers, put in on the loom. Knee skirts (rodilleras), 
one worn and one slung over the bag, and tailored 
coat are of natural black and white wool, woven at 
Nahuala and Chichigastenango. The coat is rolled up 
and tied diagonally around the body in a. The black 
and white banded bag is knitted at Solold, probably 
by the wearer. As in all the Lake region, palm hats 
come from Quiché; sandals and leather belts to hold 
knee skirts are from Totonicapan. 
c, The women’s shirts are like the men’s; are worn rolled 
up by women (pl. 13, b) and long by men. Zutes are 
also similar, cotton woven on stick looms, with bands 
of red and txcaco brown and dark blue, especially 
wide in the center, Here, one is worn as a head cover, 
folded up, and a smaller one is thrown over the open 
market basket. The sash is also of home-woven 
cotton, mostly red, with some yellow, brown, and dark 
blue. As in the men’s suit material, the women’s 
huipil and zute cloth is sometimes decorated with 
small loom-brocaded geometric figures. The skirt is 
of dark blue cotton, woven on foot looms by Solola 
Ladinos. Hair braids are tied up with bright-colored 
ribbon, usually pink, 
d, Trousers are long, of manufactured white cotton; shirt is 
ready-made cotton, usually green alternating with blue 
jaspe lines; red cotton sash is usually home-woven on 
stick looms. Rodilleras are bluish, small checked 
wool, from Momostenango, as are the blue wool coats. 
e, The short pants (visible through a hole in the rodillera), 
shirt (usually not worn, as in the present picture), and 
the zute (worn on the hat) are of red-and-white 
striped cotton, woven on the stick loom. The black 
jacket and black-and-white, large-checked rodillera are 
from Nahuala, where they are woven of undyed wool- 
on foot looms by Indian men. The agave string-bag 
is locally made, though some are bought from San 
Pedro la Laguna Indians; leather belt and sandals are 
from Totonicapan. For the Panajachel women’s cos- 
tume, see plate 9, a, b. 
f, Trousers are of cotton, stick-loom woven mcstly red and 
white with some yellow. Usually there are red stripes, 
but sometimes the base is plain white, figured. Geo- 
metric figures and conventionalized animals (especially 
ducks) are woven on the loom. Shirts may be 
similarly striped, with figured red sleeves; manufac- 
tured shirts replacing them since about 1910, they said. 
Hat, string-bag, rodillera, leather belt, and sandals are 
from the same sources as in e above. Blue wool coats 
(as in d) are usually worn ceremonially. The rodillera 
is never worn, but is carried over the shoulder or in 
a bag, (pliiz2;c,"d; esa). 
g, The huipil, of color and designs similar to the men’s pants, 
and the red sash and red-and-white zute, folded on 
the head, are all woven on the stick loom by the 
wearer. The huipil consists of three separate pieces, 
the center one basically red, as.at San Antonio. The 
dark-blue skirt is from Solola, The many strings of 
beads are bought from itinerant merchants in the 
Panajachel market. 
h, This huipil, woven on the stick loom, has horizontal yel- 
low, red, green, and blue stripes and rows of bars and 
chevrons, on white cotton. The pink skirt (sometimes 
blue jaspe), blue and white shawl, and variegated 
figured belt are all of cotton, made on foot looms in 
the Quezaltenango-Totonicapan region. The braids 
wound around the head are bound up with pink 
ribbon. The men’s costume is plain white cotton, 
bluish rodillera, blue wool coat or black cape (pl. 12, 
a, right). 
