INSTITUTE OF SOCIAL ANTHROPOLOGY—PUBLICATION NO. 4 
i, Trousers are white with blue dashes produced by putting 
jaspe threads from Salcaja in the warp of the stick 
loom, This weaving is even done commercially by 
some San Pedro women, and children peddle trousers 
and shawls to tourists. Usually, trousers are em- 
broidered with rows of conventionalized dolls, birds, 
and other designs in bright wool, especially pink, 
green, and blue, and are of various lengths, below 
the knee (pl. 26, e). Before about 1910, they were 
reportedly plain white, of knee length, as at San 
Pablo. Jaspe was said to have started at San Pedro 
and spread to San Juan. The red sash is also locally 
woven on stick looms, with blue and white jaspe 
stripes. Shirts, of modern cut, also contain jaspe 
stripes, as a rule, and may be locally made or bought 
in the markets, Blue wool coats are bought ready- 
made in markets. The Momostenango cloth is usually 
tailored in Quezaltenango. For hat, leather belt, and 
sandals, see e, above. The San Juan men’s costume is 
essentially the same as that of San Pedro. The 
women’s costume is likewise similar, except that many 
San Juan huipils are red and white striped. 
j, The cloth is of white cotton, woven on the stick loom. 
An occasional thin red stripe may appear in the 
trousers. The sash is red, also locally woven by 
women. 
k, Huipils are of the same cloth as men’s trousers. Shawls 
also woven by the wearer, are of cotton, dark blue 
and ixcaco brown. Coins and other small possessions 
are carried in the knotted end. The head band is 
narrow, variegated, mostly blue and brown, woven on 
foot looms at Totonicapan. The skirt is blue, from 
the Quezaltenango region, 
l, Trousers are locally woven on stick looms; white cotton 
with purple and occasional orange vertical stripes, and 
scattered conventionalized animals and geometric de- 
signs made on the loom, as at Santa Catarina. Em- 
broidery in cotton or silk, heavy orange, purple, and 
green zigzags, cross the stripes horizontally. The red 
sash may be locally woven. Other costume elements 
have the same sources as at San Pedro. Shirts, sashes, 
and even trousers are made also in San Pedro and 
sold on a small scale at Santiago (see pp. 61, 104). 
Coats of Momostenango blue wool are often worn. 
Before about 1910, instead of these, black and white 
striped ones, likes those of Solol4 without the bat, were 
used. Municipal officials always carry a black capixai 
when they leave their headquarters; like the staff, it 
is a badge of office. 
m, The huipil cloth is like that in the man’s trousers, ex- 
cept for the purple (and sometimes red and varie- 
gated) silk embroidery around the collar. The zigzag 
lines of embroidery are usually spaced so that one 
crosses the middle of the front, one the middle of the 
back, and one runs along the shoulders. The shawl, 
of wide dark blue and red stripes, is also locally 
woven on the stick loom. The variegated headband 
is from Totonicapan. It is about 25 feet long (p. 53) 
and is wrapped tightly upon a braided ring of hair, 
so that it forms a halo about 1% inches wide and 
1% inches thick, It has 4-inch bars of solid colors, 
mainly green and yellow, separated by narrow purple 
bars. The bright red skirt, with white and jaspe lines, 
is made in Quezaltenango (some also in Huehuete- 
nango). 
n, The huipil, made on the stick loom, is of cotton, red with 
narrow ixcaco brown stripes, and is covered with the 
same small scattered figures as those of Santiago. 
Cerro de Oro women, now living within the Santiago 
municipio, have adopted this element of design from 
the east Lake villages and combined it with elements 
brought from the original home municipio of Patzicia, 
whence they moved about 1880 (p. 90). The blue and 
white swte and red sash are also locally woven by 
women. The blue skirt is from the Quezaltenango 
area. 
o, The shirt is white cotton with fine red lines crossing in a 
smal! screen pattern (with vertical stripes dominant), 
and short trousers (hidden by the rodillera) are of the 
same material; collar, sleeves, and sash are red with 
yellow and black lines. All other elements are from 
the same source as in e, above. Women of San 
Antonio, who weave their men’s shirts on stick looms, 
wear huipils of similar material. The San Antonio 
huipil, like that of Santa Catarina, has a very wide 
central red element (the same as the men’s sleeves, 
but commonly with small, brocaded, geometric figures 
woven in) with white (forming the loose “sleeve’’) 
on either side. The white has red cross-lines match- 
ing the central part of the men’s shirts. Red sashes 
and zutes are hand-woven at home. Skirts are of 
heavy dark blue cotton, made in Solola. 
PLaTE 8 
a, The huipil is of white cotton with fine red lines along 
the edges, seams, and shoulders. Conventionalized 
animals in red may be woven also on the stick loom. 
Zutes are home-woven, dominantly olive green and 
indigo blue with fine yellow lines and animals 
(especially horses) embroidered usually in purple silk. 
The solid blue skirt is from Solola. (For Nahuala 
men’s dress see pl. 4, d; men’s shirts are like the 
women’s except that the collar and lower sleeves are 
usually decorated with an elaborate pattern of 
geometric figures, especially animals, in red, yellow, 
and other colors, made on the stick loom. The cloth 
of the trousers, hidden by the rodillera when in the 
Highlands, is like the shirt, with the hem decorated as 
the collar is, and with scattered woven animals. 
Some shirts and trousers are ixcaco brown and red 
striped, or dark blue and yellow; or there may be 
wide bands of ixcaco brown. The black wool jacket 
and heavy-checked rodillera are woven locally on 
foot-looms by men (see p. 49). 
b, The black wool suit, woven and tailored locally, is home- 
embroided with bright-colored silk. The red sash and 
red and yellow zute are woven on stick looms and 
decorated with silk brocade, purple being perhaps the 
commonest color, conventionalized animals and birds 
the commonest motif. Sometimes these figures are 
woven on the loom, Shirts, which may be home-made, 
are usually bought ready-made (see p. 50). Leather 
