field and laboratory measurements. Recent measurements of wave 
growth seriously differ from the accepted theory of wave generation. 
A substantial improvement could be achieved by means of a larger 
array of bottom-mounted pressure sensors (avave telescopes) which 
monitor the surface-trapped energy with reasonable resolution. 
Coastal Boundary. The focus of the intersection of the surface 
and bottom boundary is the coastal zone. The hydrodynamics of 
breaking waves, tides, and tsunamis on the sloping shelf is not clearly 
understood. The mechanism of interaction between moving fluid and 
sediment underneath is not at all understood. It is well known that 
coastal structures do not perform in a way that is expected in other 
engineering fields. There are many examples of marinas where the 
annual dredging cost equals the construction cost, or harbors where 
sheltering breakwaters have led to increased seiching or wave action 
within the harbor. This points to the subject’s difficulty, the need for 
fundamental research, and better application of known rules to actual 
practice. 
The Individual Scientist’s Role. Hydrodynamic studies of the 
oceans and atmosphere have fused with similar geophysical and astro- 
physical areas in recent years, forming a new arena of intellectual 
activity called “geophysical fluid dynamics.” Although originally 
oriented toward theoretical aspects, there has been an increasing ten- 
dency to develop laboratory experiments and field observations. In 
theoretical work and laboratory investigations efforts are largely in- 
dividual, the goal being to formulate and solve problems in fluid me- 
chanics which have bearing on basic understanding of the oceans. 
The geophysical fluid dynamics group focuses on exchanging ideas 
and maintaining enthusiasm at a high level of creative, individual 
activity. From these individual scientists come most of the ideas 
which are translated into questions about the oceans, which, in turn, 
motivate larger, organized data-collecting projects mentioned above. 
For example, the suggestion of an internal wave trap about the equator 
resulted from pioneer investigations of the motion of fluids on a 
rotating sphere. Conversely, results of the observational projects 
react on theoretical work so that it proceeds soundly. Our reason for 
mentioning the role of these individuals is to emphasize how essential 
they are and to insure that this effort is not overlooked in the hurly- 
burly of larger plans. 
Summary. It appears to us that it is now appropriate to end an 
era in which the main emphasis within physical oceanography has been 
on exploration. The MOHOLE and JOIDES programs to core far 
below the sea floor at carefully selected sites are more reasonable for 
the present level of oceanography. Likewise, the new, developing 
technology of bottom-mounted and buoy-supported instruments 
coupled with theoretical advances derived from efforts in geophysical 
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