112 Crossing the Line 



1817, continued 



culties, the prayers of mariners became less ardent, and their vows less fre- 

 quent. By degrees they became accustomed to hardships, and surmounted 

 them with greater ease and courage. As soon as tliey dared to suppose them 

 less formidable, they dared to consider them as next to nothing: a thousand 

 examples of successful hardihood strengthened their confidence. Hence the 

 first institutions were forgotten; and hence the raillery bestowed on the im- 

 aginary fears of the first navigators. The day on which they were to cross 

 the equator was expected with impatience. The more the dangers had been 

 magnified, the less they seemed to dread them. This day they devoted in 

 an especial manner to diversion, to the obhvion of their toils; and as all 

 customs over which folly presides are more permanent than those sanc- 

 tioned by reason and good sense, the consequence is, that the latter have 

 given place to the former, and wiU, doubtless, subsist so long as there shall 

 be seamen. 



The importance attached to our expedition did not exempt us from the 

 rule; and I shall proceed to give you some account of the ceremonies which 

 marked that day on board our vessel. 



On the preceding day, the movements of the sauors, who were engaged 

 in studying their respective parts, gave us the assurance of mirth. The 

 serenest atmosphere seemed to promise them a fine day. We were doubly 

 pleased, both in the prospect of our own amusement, and in the likelihood 

 that the efforts of the crew would not be disappointed. 



Their costumes are prepared; foUy shakes his bells from the tops, and 



every actor responds by a smile or a nod How httle is required to 



gladden the heart of the unfortunate! In the evening, while we were at our 

 dessert, the repeated cracking of a whip announced the commencement of 

 the ceremony. We instantly rose and went upon deck. A gruff voice, swelled 

 by an enormous speaking-trumpet, called tlie captain. The officer of the 

 watch sent to inform him that he was wanted; and M. Freycinet, previously 

 acquainted with the routine of the ceremony, rephed, in a humble and sub- 

 dued tone, that he was ready to receive the envoy of his Majesty of the Line. 

 Fresh cracks of a whip proclaimed the arrival of the messenger, who handed 

 to the captaia a letter, a model of eloquence, which his majesty's secretary 

 had previously allowed me to read. More discreet than he was, I shall not 

 communicate it to you; for it is always dangerous to betray the secrets of 

 courts. 



M. Freycinet read the letter, bestowed sincere praises on the writer, and 

 asked the envoy whence he came. 'From Toulon,' repHed he hastily; and 

 blushing at his blunder, he added: T have come a great way, and it is 

 exceedingly hot.' — 'OhI I understand you; a jug of water for the courier!' 

 — 'Many thanks to your honom"; if I accept any tiling, it will only be some- 

 thing to drink.' After a shght hbation, which the other actors nevertheless 



