LIST OF SYMBOLS 



-4 = Cross-sectional area. 



a = Measured wave height in front of wave generator. 

 ao= Corresponding deep water wave height. 

 C= Crest of the submarine sand bar. 

 ^8= Specific weight of sand. 

 D = Distance traveled by a sand ripple. 

 c^Gjf = Median dianiteer of sand. 

 A/i = Elevation of the wave crest above the undisturbed water surface. 

 A/2 = Depression of the wave trough below the undisturbed water surface. 

 Ai/i = Maximum elevation of the surface above the undisturbed water surface 



during the passage of waves. 

 Ai72 = Depression of the trough at the start of wave break. 

 Hi = Undisturbed water depth. 



H2 = Depth of water at the point where wave reformation begins. 

 //b = Depth from the undisturbed water surface to the bar base when the bar 



becomes relatively stable. 

 /ir'B=J3epth from the undisturbed water surface to the bar base when the 

 bar is in the process of formation. 

 iyc= JDepth of the bar crest below the undisturbed water surface. 

 i7,= Depth of the bar trough below the undisturbed water surface. 

 «■= Slope of the beach. 



X= Measured wave length in front of the wave generator. 

 Xo= Corresponding deep water wave length. 

 »<= Kinematic viscosity. 



= Reference point for measuring and identifying stations. 

 Q = Rate of sand transportation. 



Qr= Weight of sand transported per hour per foot of width. 

 P3 = Density of sand. 

 P«, = Density of water. 

 s= Distance between the point where the wave begins to break and the 

 breaker is completed. 

 Si = Point of impending wave break. 



<7-^ = Logarithmic standard deviation (Krumbein's notation). 

 7"= Period of the wave. 



<i = Time required for the bar to become relatively stable. 

 y = Depth of any point with respect to the undisturbed water surface. 

 z = Horizontal distance from a vertical line passing through the center of 

 the crest of the bar to any other point at depth y. 



(VIl) 



