LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 



Figure 1. Definition of terms describing the bar environment. 



Figure 2. Schematic views of beach and wave apparatus. 



Figure 3. Analysis of sand used in experiments. 



Figure 4. Example of graphic data. 



Figure 5. Wave height — Length relations in deep and shallow water. 



Figure 6. Stages ia formation of a bar. 



Figure 7. Relation between beach slope, wave height and lengths, depths of bar 

 crest and base. 



Figure 8. Configuration of bar on a steep beach. 



Figure 9. Configuration of bar on a flat beach. 



Figure 10. Relation between wave steepness and bar depths. 



Figure 1 1. Bar profiles, Lake Michigan. 



Figure 12. Average configuration of natural bars. 



Figure 13. Water surface elevations for initial conditions. 



Figure 14. Water surface elevations with bar formed. 



Figure 15. Relation between rate of initial sand transportation and fall of water 

 surface. 



Figure 16. Quantity of sand transported in bar environment for initial conditions. 



Figure 17. Mechanism of movement of sand over sand ripples. 



Figure 18. Crest height — Water depth ratios as a function of wave steepness at 

 start of deformation and recovery of waves. 



Figure 19. Crest height ratios as a function of wave steepness at start of deforma- 

 tion and recovery of waves. 



Figure 20. Crest height — Trough depth ratios as a function of wave steepness at 

 start of deformation and recovery of waves. 



(VI) 



