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2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 



DISTANCE FROM MONTEREY MUNICIPAL PIER-NAUTICAL MILES 



Figure 10. — Refraction coeFficlent a\ 5-fathom line — Monterey Bay. 



several deep water wave directions. The coeffi- 

 cients should be summarized in convenient table 

 or graph form. If forecasts are being made for 

 only one point on shore, a plot of K^ as a function 

 of wave direction and period is sufficient. If fore- 

 casts are being made for several points along a 

 coast, a convenient means of summarizing the data 

 is a graph which shows Ki factors plotted against 

 distance along the coast for various wave periods 

 (fig. 10). A separate graph for each wave direc- 

 tion would be necessary. Another possible method 

 of summarizing data would be to show a map of 

 an area with contours of equal Ka values indicated. 

 A map would have to be prepared for each wave 

 direction and period. Figure 11 shows such a 

 map for Monterey Bay as prepared from the 

 refraction diagrams shown in figures 6 and 7. 



As previously stated, it may be necessary, 

 where the tidal range is large, to construct sepa- 

 • rate diagrams for different stages of the tide. 

 It is important to note that the assumption of 

 constant wave energy between orthogonals does 

 not apply after a wave breaks. If waves pass 

 over a submerged reef, it may be necessary to 

 examine this area critically to determine whether 

 the waves break at some, or all, stages of the tide. 

 Should breaking occur, wave heights beyond the 

 reef would be lower than that determined by use 

 of Ka factors from a refraction diagram (for 

 examples, see figs. 25 and 33). As a wave passes 

 over a reef, whether or not breaking occurs, the 

 crest may break into several crests. Thus, the 

 further refraction of the wave may not be simple. 

 The refraction coefiicient, Ka, is a function of 



14 



