Hsu and Yu 



TABLE 4. RATIO OF EXPERIMEMTAL TO THEORETICAL 3 



Waves breaking, 



On the other hand, our experimental evidence indicated that 

 the wind- generated ripples riding on the mechanically-generated 

 waves had a tendency to break on the crests rather than in the 

 troughs. Longuet-Higgins [1969] showed that, in breaking, the 

 ripples may impart a significant portion of their momentum to the 

 longer waves in a strong non-linear interaction. Mollo- Christens en s 

 [ 1970] field observations showed that there were relatively high 

 peaks of energy in a high frequency band located near the crest of 

 the main wave. It is difficult to conclude that Mollo- Christens en's 

 data, taken in a confused sea, whether these high frequency peaks 

 are produced as a result of the breaking waves, caused by wave 



28 



