ATOLLS 221 



therefore must live ashore. When the Captain landed next day 

 everything was in perfect order. The brass plate marking the 

 observation spot had already been cemented into position in the 

 open space before the court house, while camp beds and mos- 

 quito nets had been set up within; the chronometer which was 

 to play such a vital part in the sight-taking was ticking away snugly 

 in its case alongside the radio to be used for the time signals, 

 and which was now playing Hawaiian music to the delight of the 

 considerable crowd that had taken up its position around the 

 entrance to the palm-thatched court house to await developments. 

 Staff had been taken on and consisted of massive, bronze Toma, 

 who was busy in a nearby cooking hut preparing a meal of roast 

 chicken and taros for the party, and a girl of extremely comely 

 appearance, with a flowered garland in her hair, who was sweep- 

 ing the bare ground around the observation spot with a sort of 

 hand besom made of the mid-ribs of coconut leaves. A small 

 group of chickens lay tethered in preparation for the following 

 meal and a sucking pig secured by one hind leg was close-by. 

 Almost at once on the arrival of the surveying party some of the 

 crowd began an impromptu dance while the remainder made way 

 for them, and soon the dancers were screaming with delight as 

 the Captain walked among them scattering talcum powder, for 

 on this occasion he had come prepared. 



Shortly after sunset on the second night ashore it became neces- 

 sary to signal off to the ship to send a battery in by boat, and the 

 shore party set out wading to the edge of the reef to meet it. 

 There was a strong north-easterly breeze blowing straight from 

 the ship towards the village, and as they felt their way in the dark- 

 ness of the cloudy night the waders could see the lights of the 

 motor skiff appearing and disappearing as she rose and fell on the 

 waves on her way inshore. The waders were unaware however 

 that a fleet of unlit sailing canoes was bearing down upon them, 

 speeding on their way before the wind towards the village. As 

 they neared the breakers at the reef's edge they saw first one and 

 then another of the canoes, and there they stood, now waist deep 

 in the water, shouting to make their presence known as the 

 canoes swept past on either side. As they came in over the shallows 

 many of the male members of the crews leapt out to lighten their 

 craft that they might continue onwards towards the village. It was 



