SPECIAL PRINTING PROCESSES 471 



result. The print will dry slightly darker than it appears when wet, and allowance 

 should be made for this, the print being developed until it seems slightly lighter than 

 the finished result is to be. 



When the print has reached the proper stage of development, the warm water is 

 emptied from the tray, the print is rinsed in three or four changes of cold water to 

 set the gelatin and prevent running of the pigment, and it is then hung up to dry. 

 When dry, the print may have a slight yellowish tone from the trifle of sensitizer still 

 remaining in the gelatin. This may be removed by soaking the print for a few minutes 

 in a 5 per cent solution of alum, a 5 per cent solution of sodium bisulphite, or a 5 per 

 cent solution of potassium metabisulphite, with subsequent washing. There does not 

 seem to be much choice among these three agents; the last is possibly the most effec- 

 tive, although it is commonly advised to use alum, on the ground that it tends to 

 harden the gelatin, but there seems little point in this, since the dried gelatin of the 

 finished print is very hard and resistant in any case. It is not absolutely imperative 

 to dry the print before clearing, but it is advisable to do so since, if this is done, 

 blisters and frilling are less likely to result. 



There is considerable latitude in the development of a carbon print. One which 

 is badly undertimed is hopeless, but if the undertiming is not serious, the print may 

 often be saved by keeping the developing water relatively cool. On the other hand, 

 an overtimed print may be developed at a temperature a good deal higher than 105°F., 

 the ordinary practical limit in this respect being about 120°F. The writer has at 

 times used the developing water as warm as 160°F., but this is very likely to cause 

 blisters and frilling. If raising the temperature of the water to 120°F. does not produce 

 the desired result, it should be reduced to about 10o°F., and a trifle of any alkali 

 should be dissolved in the water. This is rather drastic treatment and is very likely to 

 cause blisters or frilling or even a complete eating away of the gelatin in the high 

 lights; hence it should be done very cautiously, and the print should be promptly 

 rinsed in cold water when the desired result has been attained. The addition of 1 level 

 teaspoonful of anhydrous sodium carbonate, or an equivalent amount of any other 

 alkali, to 2 qt. of water will have a marked effect. 



Local development may be used to a slight extent. This is done by brushing 

 gently over the portions of the print which are to be raised in key, using a wet tuft of 

 loosely packed cotton or a soft camel's-hair brush. This work must be done very 

 cautiously, for the gelatin is likely to tear, there being more danger of this in the high 

 lights than in the shadows. Pouring water slightly warmer than the developing water 

 over the portions which are to be lightened is at times effective, as is also spraying 

 water from an atomizer or a spray bottle. 



When the fully developed print is dry, it is finished and may then be mounted in 

 any desired manner. 



Spotting. — It is ordinarily advised to save the backing paper, soften the pigmented 

 gelatin which remains thereon (using warm water for the purpose), and do any neces- 

 sary spotting with this pigment (applying it with a pointed brush). The writer 

 finds this to be rather unhandy and, except in the case of definitely colored prints, 

 such as reds and greens, unnecessary. An ordinary carbon spotting pencil, sharpened 

 to a needle point on sandpaper, will take care of any black or brown prints satisfactorily. 



Multiple Printing. — Additional contrast maj^ be secured with a soft negative or 

 additional richness and shadow depth with either a soft or a normal negative by 

 multiple printing. It is usual, though not imperative, to print first for the high 

 lights, adding one or more lighter printings for the shadows. When this is done, it is 

 neither necessary nor advisable to clear the print until after the last printing has been 

 added since the additional printings, being lighter than the first, will be developed in 

 cooler water. If the first printing has been dried before adding the subsequent ones, 



