18 



MASS TRANSPORT 



U = kVce 



2d 



RUN le 



O +.0S +.10 +.!5 



VELOCITY \n FZET PtR SECOND 



+.05 +.10 +.15 +.20 



:iTV IN FEET PER SECOND 



Figure 9. 

 6. SHALLOW-WATER WAVES 



The basic data for the shallow-water waves studied are given in 

 table 7. 



(i<-) 



Table 7. — Basic data — shallow-water waves 



The ratio 6s/a, column 9, is the ratio of the vertical to horizontal 

 amplitude of motion of the water particles in the wave surface. 



