21 



Laplace-Airy formula, similar to that of the Gerstner theory (Eq. 4), 

 and the Stokes-Struik formula: 



h ^-^^4.1 





jjrd 



2ird\4 



, l) 



(13) 



With few exceptions the measured percentage of wave height above 

 stUl water level is several percent higher than that indicated by either 

 the Laplace-Airy or Stokes-Struik theories; agreeing most nearly with 

 the former theory. 



LAPLACE-AIRY 



STOKES -STRUIK 



/ • 

 / • 



• / 

 • / • 



THEORETICAL 



PERCENTAGE WAVE HEIGHT ABOVE STILL WATER LEVEL 

 SHALLOW-WATER WAVES 



Figure 10. 



Some of the measured wave profiles are shown in nondimensional 

 form on Figures 11 and 12. Plotted on the same graphs are the wave 

 forms given by the Laplace- Airy theory: 



Xs=Rd—x sin d 



Zs=2 COS 6 



and by the Stokes-Struik theory: 



Zs=a cos kX., 



G"^+e 



( 



^^ ^ ^ka' cos 2kXs+ 



2ird _2ird\4 



(14) 



(15) 



/ 12nd 12ird\ , / Sffrf 8Trd\ , , „ / 47r(/ 47rd\ , „^ 



/ 2wd 



_22rd\6 



—J— cos ^kXs 



4 



