23 



Where a=^--^j{e^') 



The actual wave profiles do not agree with either theoretical profile. 



Figure 12. 



The relation between the measured and theoretical average semi- 

 axes of the paths described by individual water particles are given in 

 table 10. The theoretical values of the orbit radii are the same for 

 the Laplace-Airy and Stokes-Struik theories, their values being 

 given by 



horizontal semi-axis: =ar,= a 



cosh ^-[{d-h') 



sinh^' 



(16) 



sinh5((/-A0 

 vertical semi-axis : = 2 , = a- 



sinh^' 



where Xt and 0t= theoretical orbit sem-iaxis at depth h' below still 

 water. The positive sign indicates that the measured value is larger 

 than the theoretical. Some of the representative data are presented 

 graphically in Figure 13. 



