Appendix I 



PREVIOUS INVESTIGATIONS RELATIVE TO THE 

 VERIFICATION OF WAVE THEORY 



This appendix lists and discusses briefly the available data regarding 

 the verification of wave characteristics predicted by theory. The 

 complete references noted are listed in appendix II. 



This study does not include wave generation, pressures, breaking, 

 or movement of materials, hence these subjects are not discussed. 



Primary elements. — (Velocitj^, length, period) — Gaillard (1904) 

 found the measured velocity to be 3 percent greater for 85 observa- 

 tions than the Gerstner theoretical velocity for deep water. In 

 shallow water he found the measured velocity to average 0.2 percent 

 greater than the Laplace-Airy theoretical velocity for 84 observations 

 at St. Augustine, Fla., and 631 observations on Lake Superior. 



Thorade (1931) lists the following table summarizing a large number 

 of comparisons of measured velocity with velocity computed from 

 length and period by Gerstner's equations for a large number of 

 observations. 



In 1929, at Long Branch and Seaside Heights, N. J., the Beach 

 Erosion Board found that for 206 observations in shallow water the 

 measured velocity averaged 1.5 percent greater than the Laplace- 

 Airy theoretical velocity. 



A large number of studies have indicated that oscillatory waves 

 generated in tanks follow the theoretical relationships for velocity, 

 length, and period. DeCaligny (1843) and Hagen (1861) were 

 pioneers in this field. Larras, Stucky and Bonnard, Bagnold and 

 others have used this relationship as a check in connection with 



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