DEFINITIONS 



Progressive Oscillatory Wave — A periodic wave motion of finite amplitude 

 advancing over a water surface without change of type; the length of wave is 

 large compared to the wave height. 



Deep-water Wave — A wave traveling in a depth of water greater than half the 

 wave length. This definition, and that following, are used for purposes of 

 classification, and do not denote a distinct physical separation of character- 

 istics. 



Shallow-water Wave — A wave traveling in a depth of water less than half the 

 wave length. 



Still Water Level — The level at which water would stand if wave action ceased. 



Wave Length — The horizontal distance from crest to crest of the wave under 

 discussion. 



Wave Period — The time interval between consecutive similar phases of a wave 

 motion. 



Wave Height — The vertical distance from top of wave crest to the bottom of 

 the wave trough. 



Wave Velocity — The rate of advance of the wave crest relative to a fixed point. 



Orbit Radius — (Orbit Semi-axes) — The radius of the circle, or the semi-axes of 

 the ellipse, which a water particle describes during the passage of an oscillatory 

 wave. 



Mass Transport — The translatory movement of a water particle induced by the 

 passage of an oscillatory wave in deep water. 



(VI) 



