TABLE OF CONTENTS 



Pag« 



List of symbols v 



Definitions vi 



SECTIONS 



1 . Introduction 1 



2. Purpose 2 



3. Procedure 3 



4. Equipment and Methods 3 



5. Deep-Water Waves 6 



6. Shallow-Water ;Waves 18 



7. Discussion 28 



8. Conclusions 30 



Appendix I. Previous Investigations Relative to the Verification of Wave Tlieory. 

 Appendix II. — Bibliography. 



LIST OF SYMBOLS 

 a=A function of the wave amplitude or height (feet). 



a = irh/L 



C= The velocity of wave propagation (feet per second) 

 (i = Still water depth (feet), 

 e — Base of natural logarithms. 



^ = Acceleration of gravity (feet per second per second). 

 /i = Wave amplitude or height (feet), 

 /i' — Depth below still water level (feet). 

 k=iir/L 



L= Wave length (feet). 

 T= Wave period (seconds) . 



t/= Velocity of mass transport (feet per second). 

 x=The horizontal semi-axis of a wave orbit (feet). 

 X = Horizontal axis of reference. 

 z = The vertical semi-axis of the wave orbit (feet). 

 Z = Vertical axis of reference. 



SUBSCRIPTS 



a(ye= Indicates an average value. 

 TO= Indicates a measured value. 

 s = Indicates a value at the water surface. 

 f= Indicates a theoretical value. 

 2= Indicates a value at depth z. 



(V) 



