6 



shallow-water waves. Combining equation 2 with equation 1 gives 

 (7 as a function of d and T (figure 1) or L as a function of d and T 

 (figures 2 and 2a). 



RELATIONSHIP OF WAVE VELOCITY. PERIOD. AND DEPTH 



72 



56 



4S 



.40 



*S2 



24 



6 e 



T - secoNOS 



FiGTJEE 1. 



The effect of surface tension is negligible in nature but in model 

 work it may be important, especially near the plimge point where 

 the radius of surface curvature becomes very small. Experimental 

 data will be necessary to establish the lower limit of size at which 

 waves break in a manner similar to natural waves; however, some 



