TABLE OF CONTENTS 



Fag9 



List of symbols iv 



List of references y 



SECTIONS 



1 . Introduction 1 



2. Characteristics of Oscillatory Waves 1 



3. Waves of Small Amplitude 5 



4. Waves of Finite Amplitude 14 



A. Irrotational Theory 14 



B. Trochoidal Theory 24 



5. Wave Groups and Transmission of Energy 29 



6. Waves on a Sloping Bottom 36 



7. Wave Refraction 37 



8. Damping of Oscillatory Waves 41 



LIST OF SYMBOLS 



Y = A vertical displacement of water particles. 

 X = A horizontal displacement of water particles. 



t = A specific time. 



L = Wave length. 



C = Wave velocity. 



!r= Wave period. 



g = Acceleration due to gravity. 



d = Water depth. 



T = Surface tension, 



p = Density of water. 



z = Depth below still water level. 



X = Displacement in direction of wave travel. 



y = Surface ordinate. 



h = Wave height from trough to crest. 

 c», 6, = Horizontal and vertical displacements of a water particle 

 Ej, = Potential energy of wave per unit width of crest. 

 Ek = Kinetic energy of wave per unit width of crest. 



w = Weight of water per cubic foot. 



a = Half of wave height. 



U = Velocity of mass transport. 



w = Vorticity. 



R = Radius of rolling circle (Gerstner theory) . 



r = Radius of tracing circle (Gerstner theory), or polar coordinate. 



6 = Angular displacement (Gerstner theory) , or polar coordinate, 



P = Power transmitted by wave. 

 Cz = Group velocity. 



/i = Absolute viscosity ol water. 



V = Kinematic viscosity of water. 



<^ = Potential function. 



a = A function of wave height, or an angle. 



m = 2 it/l. 



n — An integral number. 



t/ = Horizontal component of velocity of water particle. 

 W = Vertical component of velocity of water particle. 



G = Volume of mass transport per unit width of crest. 



<V) 



