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16 



The Florists* Review 



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• •^ Apml 20. 1916. 



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AFFEABS TO BE YELLOWS. 



Can you tell ua what is the trouble 

 with the enclosed carnation leaves? As 

 you can see, they are yellow and 

 streaked. Just a few plants in each 

 bench show the disease, in various de- 

 grees. Some of the plants look as 

 healthy as ever. A few of the young 

 plants are becoming affected in the 

 same way. These are in 2%-inch pots 

 and are well rooted, but not potbound. 

 The soil on the benches contains a fair 

 proportion of barnyard manure and 

 ground bone, well mixed before we put 

 the soil in the houses. Since then we 

 have put on small quantities of cattle 

 manure, a light application of lime and 

 two small applications of wood ashes. 

 Last week we gave an application of 

 soot from the boiler flues and the 

 plants seemed to assume a greener color 

 after that. About March 1 we used a 

 commercial fertilizer, containing bone, 

 blood and potash, at the rate of a 2-inch 

 potful to a row across a 4%-foot bench. 

 Was that too heavy a dosef Would a 

 spraying with Bordeaux mixture be of 

 any benefit? S. B.— N. Y. 



The specimens submitted failed to 

 disclose anything besides a case of yel- 

 lows. I could perhaps be more positive 

 if I had a whole plant for inspection. 

 Your treatment of the blooming stock 

 does not seem wrong. It is too late, of 

 course, to suggest selecting the cut- 

 tings, as the propagating season is near 

 its close, but I would suggest that you 

 separate the young plants, selecting 

 those which are absolutely clean, and 

 grow them along for future propagat- 

 ing. Those which are slightly affected 

 will probably give you fair returns next 

 season, but it would be unwise to 

 propagate from them. Spraying with 

 Bordeaux will, of course, do no harm 

 and it might be beneficial, if there is 

 anv fungous disease on them. 



A. F. J. B. 



THE USE OF SHEEF MAliUBE. 



Will you be so kind as to let me 

 know which is the better way to use 

 pulverized sheep manure — dry or in 

 water? If in water, how much per bar- 

 rel? If dry, what quantity for a speci- 

 fied bench space? I should like to use 

 it both for carnations and for pot 

 plants. My carnations are strong and 

 healthy and are producing good, big 

 flowers. Is it advisable to use the 

 manure every month at this time of the 

 year, to keep the plants strong and the 

 flowers large? I formerly used cow 

 manure, as I had a good supply of it, 

 but I am not familiar with the use of 

 sheep manure. L. V. — Kan. 



Sheep manure can be used in either 

 liquid or dry form. We prefer to use 

 it in the dry state, as it is then more 

 easily applied and, as far as we have 

 been' able to observe, is just as effec- 

 tive, though perhaps not quite so quick 



in action. We sprinkle a small hand- 

 ful, about a 2V^-inch potful, between 

 the rows of plants, halfway across a 

 5-foot bench. Put it on when the soil 

 is tolerably moist and let it lie a day 

 before watering again. By that time 

 it will have absorbed enough moisture 

 to prevent it from washing away. You 

 can apply it once each month or six 

 weeks from this time on, but watch 

 your blooms, so they will not become 

 soft. At the first sign of softness, stop 

 the use of the sheep manure. 



To use it in liquid form, tie about 

 a peck of the manure in a burlap bag 

 and hang it in a 50-gallon barrel of 

 water. After the liquid has stood a 

 couple of days, you can use it. The 

 liquid can be applied once each week 

 or ten days, according to the weather 

 and the condition of the plants. 



A, F. J. B. 



been scalded with sonae kind of spray- 

 ing material. Only a microscopical ex- 

 amination will reveal which is the 

 cause. There are some spots w^hich 

 have every appearance of the common 

 leaf -spot, while there are large blotches 

 which appear to be due to scald, such 

 as is produced by arsenic. If it is 

 leaf-spot, your remedy will be Bor- 

 deaux mixture, applied once each week 

 until planting-out time. Plants that 

 are as badly affected as those sent in, 

 however, are not fit for anything, 



A. F. J. B. 



DISEASED OB SCALDED LEAVES. 



Please tell me what is the trouble 

 with the carn&tions I am sending you 

 under separate cover. They were 

 potted out of sand about ten days ago 

 and have since developed this disease. 

 My entire stock of Alice carnations 

 seems to be affected.- Is there anything 

 that can be done? F. G. W.— Ky. 



Your carnation plants either have a 

 dreadful dose of leaf-spot or they have 



SCALE ON PLUMOSUS. 



Enclosed you will find a branch of 

 Asparagus plumosus that is badly af- 

 fected with what seems to be a white 

 scale. It came from a customer 's plant. 

 Can you tell me the cause and its 

 remedy? - C. M. — Mich. 



Syringe the affected plants with 

 Aphine, Fir Tree Oil or some other 

 good, reliable preparation. The recep- 

 tacles containing these insecticides will 

 each tell in what proportion they should 

 be used. A thorough spraying should 

 kill and loosen the scale so that a large 

 proportion can be washed off by using 

 a fine spray nozzle on the hose. Give 

 a second spraying whenever it seems 

 necessary. C. W. 



THE WOBM WILL TUBN. 



The following was a paid reading no- 

 tice in the Sun, published at Paducah, 

 Ky.: 



All ladies having storage pot plants in Bob 

 Parrish'a greenhouses, Wallace park, can get 

 them any time they send for tbem. Ring 526 

 either phone (Park Cash Store) and get the 

 amount you owe me as life is too short to work 

 seven months on credit then beg for my money, 

 so send cash or check when you send for plants. 

 Yours to stTve, BOB PARRISH.^ 



MOBE ON BESTING CATTLEYAS. 



In The Review of February 10, on 

 page 18, E. A. E., of Illinois, inquired 

 how long cattleyas should be rested 

 after flowering, and C. W. replied that 

 they should be rested for a couple of 

 months, or, to be more exact, two 

 months. As an old collector of orchids 

 and the finder of C. Trianae Schroederee, 

 perhaps I may be allowed to ' ' butt in. ' ' 

 C. Trianse flowers at the beginning of 

 the dry season and, consequently, needs 

 a long rest afterwards. C. Mossiae, how- 

 ever, flowers during the first rains and 

 starts to grow immediately. It conse- 

 quently takes its rest before flowering. 

 C. gigas and C. aurea flower during the 

 middle of the wet season and do not 

 begin their rest until six weeks or two 



months later. Dowiana grows where the 

 rainfall is indeterminate and, therefore, 

 needs no rest at all, or only a partial 

 one. You will be surprised to hear that 

 I found my first Schroedera' out on 

 Christmas day. In its habitat its season 

 of flowering is .January and February, 

 and the rains begin about the latter 

 part of March. As far as my observa- 

 tions go, all cattleyas make their 

 sheaths during the season of heaviest 

 rainfall, and the cup formed by the ex- 

 panding leaf is always full of water. 

 If, therefore, your growths damp off 

 when there is water in them, it follows 

 that your conditions are wrong. Nature 

 makes no mistakes; we are apt to do s». 

 Edw. A. Wallace. 



SEASONABLE NOTES. 



Shading. 

 While' we have long spells of dark 



