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The Rorfsts' Review 



May 4, 191«-:' 



BOSES FOB THE BEOINNEB. 



We have three beds, two of which are 

 solid and one raised. The solid beds 

 are each 4x60 feet and the raised bed 

 is 3x60 feet. The three beds we intend 

 to plant to roses for the retail trade. 

 We want easy doers for a start, as this 

 is our first attempt at growing roses. 

 We are thinking of planting one solid 

 bed to Double White ELillarnejr' the 

 other solid bed to Killarney Brilliant; 

 tli§ raised bed, which has a bead room 

 6f three feet, to Hadley and Ophelia. 

 Are these varieties as good as others in 

 the same colors f How many plants 

 would it take to plant the three beds, 

 and how warm should they be grown at 

 nightf Any information would be ap- 

 preciated. H. W. 8.— Md. 



In the solid beds both Double White 

 Killarney and Killarney Brilliant will 

 do well, but to a beginner I would rec- 

 ommend the old Killarney instead of 

 Killarney Brilliant, for it is an easier 

 grower and will stand more abuse. For 

 the raised bed I would suggest Mrs. 

 Aaron Ward instead of either Hadley 

 or Ophelia, for it requires less head 

 room than either of the others. Three 

 feet is not enough head room for Had- 

 fey or Ophelia. As there is only room 

 ^or 144 plants on the raised bed, I 

 would not plant more than one variety, 

 because even under the most favorable 

 conditions you would not avera|^e more 

 than 300 blooms per month during the 

 winter. 



Setting the plants fifteen inches apart 

 in the rows, four rows to the solid beds 

 and three rows to the raised bed, you 

 will need 192 plants of Killarney; 192 

 of Double White Killarney; 144 of Mrs. 

 Aaron Ward. The night temperature 

 should be 60 to 62 degrees. W. J. K. 



BOSE PBOPAGATION IK HAWAH. 



Can you tell me how to propagate rose 

 cuttings successfully in this climate f 

 The temperature at night is from 65 to 

 75 degrees and in the daytime from 85 

 to 95 degrees. Bose cuttings placed in 

 sand in a shady place made a profuse 

 growth of leaves for about three weeks 

 and then suddenly died without having 

 formed any callus or roots. I got only 

 two or three plants from 1,000 cuttings. 

 I cotdd try layering, of course, but that 

 is a great deal of work. 



H. J. — Hawaii. 



I think propagation by means of cut- 



tings would be difficult in your warm 

 climate. Layering, while slower, would 

 be safe. Have you tried budding or 

 grafting? The latter method should 

 prove safe, provided you can secure 

 suitable stock on which to bud. Per- 

 haps some Be view readers who have 

 tried rose propagation in a warm cli- 

 mate will give their experience. C. W. 



MILDEW ON BAMBLEB BOSES. 



Please tell me what is wrong with 

 my Baby Eambler roses, of which I am 

 sending a specimen. I got them last 

 year and had them in 5-inch pots, mov- 

 ing them to a bed in August. The soil 

 contained some loam and sand. I got 

 the soil from a wood where the leaves 

 had rotted. I feed the plants with 

 liquid cow manure about every two 

 weeks. Would keeping them too wet 

 be the cause of the trouble f I am not 

 watering tkem now and will let them 

 dry out thoroughly. The temperature 

 is 50 to 55 degrees at night. I have 

 cleaned out my greenhouse and raked 

 all the soil under the benches. Should 



I burn sulpt^urt The plants are still' 

 growing and are coming into bud. 



M. 0. P.— Ind. 



The foliage forwarded was simply 

 covered with mildew. If your plants 

 as a whole are affected in this way, I 

 am afraid it is a pretty hopeless propo- 

 sition to try to clean them. You will; 

 simply ruin your plants altogether if 

 you burn sulphur in the house. If you 

 have steam pipes, paint a little on oneF 

 of the pipes. If hot water is used, 

 paint some on the flow pipe. You can 

 also help the plants in some measure 

 by spraying with Pungine, Sulphocide 

 or some other reliable proprietary 

 fungoid remedy, applying it as directed 

 on the cans. Mildew is usually caused 

 by cold drafts. Ventilation must be 

 carefully given. The trouble is encour- 

 aged, also, by improper atmospherio 

 conditions and wide fluctuations in tem- 

 perature. 



Your soil was not just suitable for 

 roses. In potting again, use good de- 

 cayed pasture sod with some rotted 

 eow manure added. Do not use any 

 leaf -mold or sand. Feeding with liquid 

 cow manure when the pots are weU 

 filled with active roots is beneficial.. 

 This can be applied once a week. 



0. W. 



NOT BHEA BEID. 



I am sending you, under separate 

 cover, a red rose which appeared among 

 my stock of E. C. d'Arenberg. Kindly 

 tell me what variety it is. Is it Bhea 

 Eeidt E. A. B.— lU. 



The rose sent was too badly wilted;, 

 on arrival, to be positively identified^ 

 but its foliage seemed to indicate that 

 it was Hadley. It was not Bhea Beid. 



w. J. K« 



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Peonies. 



The season is a somewhat backward 

 one, but we have had abundant rains; 

 in fact, it is many years since we have 

 had so moist an April, with the land so 

 moist at planting time. The moisture 

 suits hardy herbaceous perennials to a 

 nicety and none appreciate it more than 

 the peonies. They are much benefited 

 by feeding when the growths are a foot 

 or so in height. Use some quick-act- 

 ing food, such as liquid eow or sheep 

 manure or nitrate of soda. It is better 

 if applied when the ground is moist. 

 Dried blood, thinly scattered among the 

 plants and hoed in, also has proved 

 to be a good fertilizer. 



Asters. 



The earliest batch of asters should 

 now go outdoors. Never mind if they 

 get a little frost; it will not harm 

 them and they are better outdoors than 

 becoming rootbound in pots or flats. 

 The aster land should be well prepared, 

 preferably in the fall, but if that was 

 not done, as early in the spring as 

 possible. Manure well with cow or well 

 rotted barnyard manure. Harrow the 



land thoroughly. Where -stable manure 

 is scarce, commercial fertilizer can be 

 substituted, and I have found a good 

 potato fertilizer to answer well. To 

 make up for the practical absence of 

 potash in these fertilizers, use some 

 wood ashes, which you yourself may 

 have saved or which you can procure 

 locally. Have you remembered to make 

 successional sowings of asters f If not, 

 get in a good batch of American or 

 vick's Branching, and one of the Os- 

 trich Plume section, such as Crego. The 

 seeds will do just as well now if sown in 

 the. open air. 



Winter-Flowering Begonias. 



Plants of the winter-blooming bego- 

 nias^ like Cincinnati, Gloire de Lorraine, 

 Melior, Mrs. J. A. Peterson and others, 

 are now making much better growth 

 and will need attention before they 

 become potbound. Use a light compost, 

 containing a good deal of flaky leaf • 

 mold, in addition to some old, well 

 screened cow manure and sand. If one- 

 half the total compost is leaf -mold, only 

 partlv decayed, the plants will enjoy it 

 all the better. Place the plants in a 

 warm house, kept at 60 to 62 degrees 



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